Tag: Advanced techniques

Fall is a wonderful time to enjoy outdoor activities and breathe in the beauty of nature. It’s refreshing to be away from my glass studio in environments rich with color, pattern and new scenes. I cherish time cooling off on the water and the exhilaration of hiking in the woods. The outings clear my mind of old design themes, they rejuvenate my spirit and inspire new design ideas.

I may be off work, but my creative subconscious is on duty collecting tidbits that’ll later be integral parts of my new art. I seek exciting new compositions by studying tiny details like the delicate curled shoots of ferns. I imagine the extreme color combinations studying the broad strokes of a spectacular, cotton candy pink sunset. Even familiar settings, seen with renewed artistic curiosity, offer new appeal.  

Fairy Tale Forest was inspired by a path I frequently walk in the woods. It’s an enchanted place with specked shade, inviting curves that promise adventure and the musical sounds of nature alive in the brush. Tall pines and century old oaks form a canopy overhead. The cathedral-like tunnel makes me feel small, at ease and safe. It’s as if the trees are guarding me with the wisdom of their age. It’s such a magical place, I half expect to see a white unicorn trotting around the palmetto bushes.

The truth is the path doesn’t really look like my design. I exercised my artistic license. I designed the art to convey the way I feel, the comfort and joy I have when I’m strolling down the leaf blanketed trail.

I never would have stretched my artistic vision to that extent without the actual experience of walking down that path.

Paradise Bay was inspired by a favorite lagoon on a lake. Again, the artwork loosely represents the landscape. It’s really a representation of good times and fond memories of time spent with my family.  

River Bottom was inspired by the ditch that lines my street. Really. I was walking one morning and noticed the sunlight shining on the water in the retention ditch on my road. The sun pierced through the clear water down to the bottom where it lit up the tiny green leaves of mossy plants. They sparkled like glitter covered light bulbs. It was so captivating I then noticed some lacy tree leaves suspended in time, and the striking shadows of tree trunks stretching across the placid surface of the water. I thought, this is a beautiful scene, how can I render this in glass?

The project is simple. You must see it in person, after hearing the story, to really appreciate the true beauty and depth of River Bottom. The takeaway, the invaluable lesson, is that beauty is all around us. We just have to look for it and then let it inspire us to be creative.           

Take it outside!

This fall while you’re exploring beaches, mountains and cities open yourself to discovery. Then, when the artistic spark flares, you’ll have an exciting collection of new ideas to fuel what you fire. 

Happy fusing!
Lisa 

Get FREE advanced glass fusing tips and trick in your inbox. Follow my blog for weekly inspiration.

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Upcoming LIVE Event!

Fusing with Frit Webinar

November 28, 2023

Ramp up the visual intricacy of your glass art!

Clever glass fusers know that using strong line quality and bold color saturation in combination is an effective way to create stand-out works of art.

Now take such trustworthy techniques and sprinkle in gradient blends and subtle shading achieved using frit. You’ll be amazed just how quickly your artwork advances to a new, exciting level of sophistication.

In this comprehensive webinar, I’ll show you how to apply several methods I employ to add the striking, painterly-quality I have developed to improve the impact of your glass fusing projects.

I demonstrate how to make SEVEN projects in this Webinar including a sea turtle, flowering tree, to beach scene and more!

You’ll learn: how to evaluate a design to maximize the imagery, steps for successful fabrication and practical tips for building professional quality, finished pieces.

Along with my step-by-step instruction, you’ll also receive complete material lists and project-specific firing guides.

5 Tips to Improve Your Cutting

One of the fastest and easiest ways to improve your fused glass art and dramatically expand your design style is to develop your glass cutting skills.

The beauty of working with fusing is the simplicity of the medium. Many people come to the craft with little or no glass cutting experience. Due to the ease of fabrication and wealth of readily available information, they’re successfully producing attractive pieces from the start.

But if you’re now tiring of the simple cut and assemble methods that got you started and longing to move in a more advanced direction, a small dose of technique is the jump start you need.

It may seem like a trivial topic to address, but your project complexity is in direct relation to your cutting confidence. In other words, the better you cut, the more likely you are to venture outside of your comfort zone and take on more challenging projects.

Here are some tips to get you started. 

1 Consistent pressure.

Contrary to popular belief, it doesn’t take a heavy hand to make a good score line on glass. What it takes is consistent, medium pressure from the very beginning to the very end of the score. The glass cutter should, “sing” as it rolls over the surface of the glass. It’s a pleasant, consistent sound beginning to end. It’s not a cringing grinding noise. A good score is visible its entire length. But it’s not messy and littered with thin splinters. The grinding noise and splinters are signs you’re applying way too much pressure.

Many beginners start strong but let up the pressure as their hand moves farther away from their body. In this case, breakage tends to occur ¾ of the way down the score line. Beginners believe the score comes solely from the hand. A good score comes from making your wrist, elbow and shoulder one rigid tool. This combined strength and rigidity helps you apply consistent pressure the entire length of the score even at an awkward distance from your body. 

When cutting an unusually long piece, I turn the glass so I can run my score right to left instead of away from my body. This way I can move my body along with my hand and more easily maintain the consistent pressure needed for a successful break.    

2 Cut on the smoothest side of the glass.

In some cases, I prefer the look, color or pattern on the textured side of a sheet of glass. I turn the glass over and cut on the smoother side and then simply turn the glass back over when I assemble my project. The glass cutter wheel will have better, more consistent, contact with the glass the entire length of the score if you cut on the smoothest side. 

3 Beginning and end.

Try to start your score as close to the leading edge of the glass as possible without falling backward off the glass. Apply consistent, medium pressure from the very start. End the score as close to the far edge as possible without falling off the glass. Repeatedly falling off the glass edge will damage the cutter wheel and could possibly cause the glass to shatter.  

4 Use the right tool for the job.

Use a strip cutter or circle cutter when applicable. Accuracy is key for professional quality artwork. These tools give your work consistency. Plus, they save material by reducing waste and breakage.

When cutting strips, I cut a few more than I need and select the best, straightest strips for my project. The extra pieces find their way into smaller projects, pot melts or free flows. Nothing goes to waste.

Whenever possible, I opt to use running pliers over grozing or breaking pliers to break glass away from a sheet. Running pliers give the most reliable results. They work best if the glass being removed is at least as wide as the rubber tipped plier jaw. When breaking narrow or small curved pieces away, I choose grozing plies because the narrow jaw fits in tight places and allows me to get close to the score line.     

5 Use paper patterns.

Don’t hesitate to cut around a paper pattern to include an intricate shape in your work. This is a terrific way to transition away from strictly geometric designs and into pieces with lively organic elements.

Glass wants to break in a straight line. To cut rounded shapes, we make a series or gradual curves and break the excess glass away in steps until we have a glass shape that closely resembles our pattern.  

When cutting around a paper pattern piece, cut as close to the paper as possible without running into it. Beginners tend to cut a wide safety halo around the paper. It just postpones the inevitable. Be brave. Go for it. If the glass is going to break unfavorably the halo, no matter how heavenly, won’t prevent it.

Something to build on.  

The more time and effort you put into each step makes the next step easier and the finished product that much better. Don’t rush a project just to get it in the kiln. Give it the time it needs and produce your best work, every time. If you have to ask, “Is this good enough,” it probably isn’t. Do yourself a favor, re-do that piece or step. You can thank me later when you’re doing the, my piece came out awesome, happy dance.  

Go ahead. Cut it up!

Happy fusing!
Lisa 

Get FREE advanced glass fusing tips and trick in your inbox. Follow my blog for weekly inspiration.

• Facebook
• YouTube
• Instagram

Upcoming LIVE Event!

Fusing with Frit Webinar

November 28, 2023

Ramp up the visual intricacy of your glass art!

Clever glass fusers know that using strong line quality and bold color saturation in combination is an effective way to create stand-out works of art.

Now take such trustworthy techniques and sprinkle in gradient blends and subtle shading achieved using frit. You’ll be amazed just how quickly your artwork advances to a new, exciting level of sophistication.

In this comprehensive webinar, I’ll show you how to apply several methods I employ to add the striking, painterly-quality I have developed to improve the impact of your glass fusing projects.

I demonstrate how to make SEVEN projects in this Webinar including a sea turtle, flowering tree, to beach scene and more!

You’ll learn: how to evaluate a design to maximize the imagery, steps for successful fabrication and practical tips for building professional quality, finished pieces.

Along with my step-by-step instruction, you’ll also receive complete material lists and project-specific firing guides.

Artists are the most generous people I know. We love to share our passion. We all want to make a more dramatic and memorable impression with our art. One of the bests ways to accomplish this is to go bigger and make large scale pieces that stand out from the crowd. 

But going bigger can be scary. You have to invest more time and material. And there are more design decisions to make. It’s a huge commitment and you want guarantees that the finished piece will exceed your expectations. Following are some fundamental tips that’ll greatly increase your success with all your fused glass artwork.  

1 Measuring the Slumping Mold

It seems trivial, but this is where most craftsman go wrong. Everyone wants to make the largest fused glass disc possible. They then measure the mold from the outer rim to the outer rim and cut their glass circles accordingly. They wrongly assume the glass that rests on the top rim of the mold will follow the center of the fused glass disc as it slumps into the mold. The problem is the glass on the flat rim drags. 

Therefore, it does not fall into the mold evenly. The result is a bowl with uneven height in the side walls. A lopsided bowl can be avoided simply by measuring across the inside of the mold and then cutting the glass ¼ to ½ inch smaller than that measurement. Yes, the bowl is slightly smaller. No one will notice. They’ll be too busy admiring your beautifully crafted, uniform bowl with even side walls all the way around. 

2 Durability is in the Design

When going larger it’s important to design your art in such a way that the glass thickness is uniform throughout the entire piece of art. If you design the round disc with two glass layers on one side and four glass layers on the opposite side, you’ll have unbalanced mass. This can cause the finished piece of art to break due to the stress of supporting its own weight. Instead, plan your design execution in advance to ensure you have the same number of glass layers across the entire disc. Small accents pieces decorating the top aren’t a concern, provided they’re added in moderation. 

3 Let it Shine

The beauty of glass is its transparency. The attraction of glass fusing is our ability to mix transparent and opal materials, to create various color combinations and an infinite number of intricate patterns. The wonderful thing about going large is the extended size of the creative canvas. With more room, you have more opportunity to expand your design ideas and make a dynamic statement. So rather than fumble through, take time to plan a well thought out design. Consider including pre-tacked or fused glass components for added interest. Mix both transparent and opal glass to increase visible depth. The possibilities are endless.  

4 Do Your Best Work

Don’t cut corners. No excuses. If you think to ask, “Should I recut or redo this?” My answer is, “Yes.” The more time and effort you put into each step will greatly improve the overall quality of your finished pieces. Fabrication and execution are equally as important as design esthetics. If you implement this approach, every piece you produce will be a masterpiece.  

5 Fusing and Slumping

Slow it down. Larger usually also means thicker. You’ll dramatically increase your firing success rate by slowing down both the fusing schedule and the slumping schedule. I fire my large pieces at 300 degrees per hour and hold several times on the way up to 1465 degrees to fuse, and 1220 degrees to slump. I anneal the glass at 960 degrees for 180 minutes, for both fusing and slumping, and then slowly drop the temperature down to room temperature. By being conservative with the firing schedules, I achieve consistently beautiful results every time. You can too! 

Excerpt from my Make a Fused Glass Sink Webinar

Join me for my upcoming webinar for more in-depth information on making large, fused glass bowls and sinks. All my pro tips and tricks will be revealed. Plus, you’ll get my custom firing guides for fusing and slumping large bowls and sinks.  

Let’s get together and make sinks in my Make a Fused Glass Sink webinar Thursday April 21, 2022.

I hope to see you Thursday!

Happy fusing!
Lisa 

Get FREE advanced glass fusing tips and trick in your inbox. Follow my blog for weekly inspiration.

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Gain knowledge! Build confidence! Get inspired!

Make a Fused Glass Sink Webinar

April 21, 2022

You’re invited to join me for this comprehensive sink making webinar. In this LIVE event I’ll guide you step by step through the time-tested processes I use to make large-scale, functional vessels.

You’ll learn safe handling techniques for cutting oversized circles, how to fuse and slump thick pieces to retain consistent bowl height, plus trade-secrets for worry free drilling.

In addition to fabrication know-how, you’ll receive a complete supply list, specifics on kiln requirements, source information for the slumping mold and drill kit, as well as helpful installation tips.

In addition, I’ll demonstrate how to make a glittering dichroic sink. I’ll also show you how to make a cast glass sink from nipped glass pieces, dichroic bits and frit. Plus, you’ll be guided through the various cold-working steps I use to finish the cast glass sink edge to a glamorous, professional, quality polish.

With all the professional tricks revealed, you’ll gain the confidence and knowledge needed to make your own dazzling fused glass sink.

NEW DATE!

Make Fire & Ice!

Advanced Glass Fusing 4-Day, Hands-on Workshop May 24 – 27, 2022

In this class, you will push the boundaries art glass imposes. Students will explore innovative approaches to design and combine multiple advanced techniques to construct original art that reflects their own personal style. You’ll enjoy: the one-on-one instruction, making multifaceted projects, the well-equipped classroom, and the intimate class size.

You’ll love the concentrated, in-depth study and creative momentum you’ll gain while actively producing, nonstop for four consecutive days. You’ll leave class with a working knowledge of kiln operation, custom project specific firing guides, and the inspiration you’ve been craving to go bigger and do more elaborate works of fused glass art!

Join me for this intense workshop held in my private studio.
Wesley Chapel, Florida, 4-Day, Hands-on, Class size is limited.

Artwear Designed for Artists by Artists Tell them how you really feel with bold T-shirts, Eco-conscience tote bags and sassy mugs.

Get it now! Start fusing today!

Downloadable instructional videos for every skill level.

Instructional eBooks for every skill level.

Amazingly, I’ve been teaching enthusiastic students how to work with glass for 36 years! I’ve helped thousands of artists create beautiful, unique pieces of art. Even after all this time I don’t consider myself an expert. I am very experienced, but like you I still have a lot to learn. It’s the glorious anticipation of learning new things that motivates and excites me to keep moving forward.

With my lengthy teaching history, you can imagine I get a lot of questions from students.  I thought I’d share some of them with you. I hope they help you understand different aspects of the craft and improve your fusing results.

Students constantly try to corner me and get absolute, it’s only done this way, fusing advice from me. My honest advice to them is this, there is no always or never in glass fusing. I approach every project with the intention of getting the best results possible. I will use any and all means and combination of materials I have at my disposal to achieve my goals. The following list in intended to be a helpful guide. There are many ways to approach glass fusing. Thankfully, for me anyway, it’s not an absolute science. That would take all the fun out of creating original art.    

Here we go:

Q.  Do you have to re-coat the ceramic kiln shelf with primer every time you use it? 

A. I do re-coat my ceramic shelve with primer every time I use it. I apply three coats of shelf primer on top of used primer. However, if the shelf shows signs of wear, I scrape it down to the bare ceramic with a single edge razor blade. I then re-coat the shelf with 3 fresh coats of primer. Visible signs of wear would include the primer looks thin, the coating has cracks in it or it’s flaking off the shelf.

Q. Why does kiln wash stick to the back of the project?

A.This is usually the result of exhausted kiln wash; the shelf should have been re-primed prior to use. It may also occur when the glass has been fired to too hot a temperature or kept at full fuse too long. Kiln wash can be removed with fine steel wool or a scraping tool. Stubborn spots can be soaked off with a bathroom cleaning product used to remove hard water stains. 

Q. After the project is fused, how close to room temperature does the kiln have to be before opening the kiln lid?

A.How badly do you want the project inside? Room temperature is usually well below 100 degrees Fahrenheit. If you open the lid prematurely thermal shot can occur; breakage caused by changing temperatures too fast. Just a quick peek in the kiln, done too early can ruin your day. Wait, it will be worth it! 

Q. What causes tiny bubbles and how do I get rid of them?

A.Air becomes trapped between the layers of glass when it is heated. The number and size of the air bubbles can be reduced by heating the glass more slowly between the temperatures of 1000 to 1465 degrees Fahrenheit. This gives the air more time to escape before the glass edges become sealed.

Q. How do I avoid big bubbles?

A.Large dome shaped bubbles sometimes form in the middle of medium to large size projects. This is usually the result of firing too fast on a smooth surface like a ceramic kiln shelf. The outer edges of the project become soft first and form a “seal” like a suction cup on the shelf. Air becomes trapped under the glass. When it expands it lifts the glass and forms an unattractive bubble. This is less likely to happen when using shelf paper or a fiberboard kiln shelf, as the air can escape through the porous material. Best advice is to slow down the firing process. 

Q. Can I Stack kiln shelves?

A.Not recommended. Unlike ceramics, glass is thin and reacts to heat quickly. Stacking shelves causes uneven heating. The outer edges of the project become molten before the center has a chance to react; your firing results may be inconsistent.   

Q. How does the thickness of the glass relate to my target temperature?

A.A project made with two layers of thin fusible glass will usually reach the desired “look” before a project made with two layers of 1/8” glass. When you change project sizes or materials (thin vs. 1/8”) you will want to monitor the first few firings and make any necessary adjustments to your firing schedule.  

Q. Can more than one project be fired in the kiln at one time?

A.Yes, if the projects are similar. They should be made from the same thickness of glass, have the same number of layers and be close in size. Use a firing speed for the largest project. Small projects will not be harmed by firing slowly but the large project will suffer if rushed.

Q. What causes sharp edges on the project?

A.Dragging is usually caused by over firing a project that is resting on fiber paper. As the glass contracts and draws in on itself the paper resists, sharp edges are the result. This edge can be made safe with a file or grinder. After grinding the project can be put back into the kiln and heated until the ground edge is polished.

Q. Why is there debris between the glass layers?

A.Too much glue. Small amounts of glue will burn off leaving no trace. I avoid using glue if possible. When I do use glue, I apply a few pin head size dots on the backside of the glass. If you use an excessive amount of glue, it will burn becoming sealed between the layers, leaving dark blotches. Excess glue can also cause small eruptions that will blow a hole through the glass or cause pieces to jump and move in the kiln.

Q. What is the difference between using a ceramic kiln shelf or fiber paper?

A. Ceramic Shelf:

• Fused glass will take on the texture/pattern of whatever it is fired on. If you fire on a ceramic kiln shelf your project will have a smooth back surface. (great for bowls, plates, fine art pieces; projects where a sleek underside is desired.)
• A Ceramic shelf can be used repeatedly
• A ceramic shelf is dense; it retains heat which allows the glass to pass through the critical stages slowly.
• Ceramic shelves must be primed frequently; this can be time consuming.

  Fiber Paper:

• Shelf paper comes in a variety of thickness and finishes. Generally, the thinner the material the smoother the fusing surface. (Great for coasters, pins, wall art; projects where a textured back side will make it easy to glue accessories on like rubber feet, pin back, etc.)
• The thin material can only be used once. The medium material can sometimes be reused; it leaves a matte finish on the back of the project. The thick material can be used multiple times but the texture on the back of the project will be course.
• The fiber paper is porous. Air can circulate, therefore large air bubbles are less likely to form between the glass and the shelf.
• Shelf paper must be cut to size and can be costly if you are using it every time you fire.

Q. What are the differences between ceramic molds and stainless-steel molds? 

A. Ceramic Molds:

• Ceramic molds come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. They must be primed like the ceramic kiln shelf. The primer tends to last longer on a form than on a shelf because slumping temperatures are lower than fusing temperatures. Slumping occurs at approximately between 1200-1300 degrees.
• Ceramic molds are inexpensive and durable, but they will break if dropped or used un-primed.
• Ceramic molds should be sanded and be re-primed if there are pits or cracks in the primer coating.
• Ceramic molds cool more slowly than the glass. Therefore, most molds are shaped so the glass slumps down into the mold, allowing the glass to contract first.

Stainless-Steel Molds:

• Stainless steel molds come in a variety of shapes and sizes as well. They must be primed also. The slick surface makes priming more difficult. The mold can be sanded, sandblasted, or heated to make the priming process easier.
• Stainless steel molds are extremely durable “forever” molds. But they tend to be several times more expensive than ceramic molds.
• Steel molds should also be sanded and re-primed if there are pits or cracks in the coating,
• Steel cools more quickly than the glass. The metal contracts underneath the glass which gives the room needed to slide the draped piece off the mold.

A bit of advice:

Enjoy the creative process. Don’t rush it. Take your time. Make small test pieces to establish a relationship with your kiln and with fusing materials. Take before and after pictures. Take accurate notes so you can repeat the successful projects and learn how to avoid the failures. Don’t worry that the test pieces won’t be fun. Some of my best work originated as a small sample. Trust that as your confidence and skills grow, so will the size and complexity of your projects.

Wherever you are in your journey you are doing great! This is where you are meant to be in order to get where you want to go. Treasure every minute! 

Happy fusing!
Lisa 

Get FREE advanced glass fusing tips and trick in your inbox. Follow my blog for weekly inspiration.

• Facebook
• YouTube
• Instagram

NEW EVENT!

Make a Fused Glass Sink Webinar

April 21, 2022

You’re invited to join me for this comprehensive sink making webinar. In this LIVE event I’ll guide you step by step through the time-tested processes I use to make large-scale, functional vessels.

You’ll learn safe handling techniques for cutting oversized circles, how to fuse and slump thick pieces to retain consistent bowl height, plus trade-secrets for worry free drilling.

In addition to fabrication know-how, you’ll receive a complete supply list, specifics on kiln requirements, source information for the slumping mold and drill kit, as well as helpful installation tips.

In addition, I’ll demonstrate how to make a glittering dichroic sink. I’ll also show you how to make a cast glass sink from nipped glass pieces, dichroic bits and frit. Plus, you’ll be guided through the various cold-working steps I use to finish the cast glass sink edge to a glamorous, professional, quality polish.

With all the professional tricks revealed, you’ll gain the confidence and knowledge needed to make your own dazzling fused glass sink.

NEW DATE!

Make Fire & Ice!

Advanced Glass Fusing 4-Day, Hands-on Workshop May 24 – 27, 2022

In this class, you will push the boundaries art glass imposes. Students will explore innovative approaches to design and combine multiple advanced techniques to construct original art that reflects their own personal style. You’ll enjoy: the one-on-one instruction, making multifaceted projects, the well-equipped classroom, and the intimate class size.

You’ll love the concentrated, in-depth study and creative momentum you’ll gain while actively producing, nonstop for four consecutive days. You’ll leave class with a working knowledge of kiln operation, custom project specific firing guides, and the inspiration you’ve been craving to go bigger and do more elaborate works of fused glass art!

Join me for this intense workshop held in my private studio.
Wesley Chapel, Florida, 4-Day, Hands-on, Class size is limited.

Artwear Designed for Artists by Artists Tell them how you really feel with bold T-shirts, Eco-conscience tote bags and sassy mugs.

Get it now! Start fusing today!

Downloadable instructional videos for every skill level.

Instructional eBooks for every skill level.

Be a Cut Above

One of the fastest and easiest ways to improve your fused glass art and dramatically expand your design style is to develop your glass cutting skills.

The beauty of working with fusing is the simplicity of the medium. Many people come to the craft with little or no glass cutting experience. Due to the ease of fabrication and wealth of readily available information, they’re successfully producing attractive pieces from the start.

But if you’re now tiring of the simple cut and assemble methods that got you started and longing to move in a more advanced direction, a small dose of technique is the jump start you need.

It may seem like a trivial topic to address, but your project complexity is in direct relation to your cutting confidence. In other words, the better you cut, the more likely you are to venture outside of your comfort zone and take on more challenging projects.

Here are some tips to get you started. 

1 Consistent pressure.

Contrary to popular belief, it doesn’t take a heavy hand to make a good score line on glass. What it takes is consistent, medium pressure from the very beginning to the very end of the score. The glass cutter should, “sing” as it rolls over the surface of the glass. It’s a pleasant, consistent sound beginning to end. It’s not a cringing grinding noise. A good score is visible its entire length. But it’s not messy and littered with thin splinters. The grinding noise and splinters are signs you’re applying way too much pressure.

Many beginners start strong but let up the pressure as their hand moves farther away from their body. In this case, breakage tends to occur ¾ of the way down the score line. Beginners believe the score comes solely from the hand. A good score comes from making your wrist, elbow and shoulder one rigid tool. This combined strength and rigidity helps you apply consistent pressure the entire length of the score even at an awkward distance from your body. 

When cutting an unusually long piece, I turn the glass so I can run my score right to left instead of away from my body. This way I can move my body along with my hand and more easily maintain the consistent pressure needed for a successful break.    

2 Cut on the smoothest side of the glass.

In some cases, I prefer the look, color or pattern on the textured side of a sheet of glass. I turn the glass over and cut on the smoother side and then simply turn the glass back over when I assemble my project. The glass cutter wheel will have better, more consistent, contact with the glass the entire length of the score if you cut on the smoothest side. 

3 Beginning and end.

Try to start your score as close to the leading edge of the glass as possible without falling backward off the glass. Apply consistent, medium pressure from the very start. End the score as close to the far edge as possible without falling off the glass. Repeatedly falling off the glass edge will damage the cutter wheel and could possibly cause the glass to shatter.  

4 Use the right tool for the job.

Use a strip cutter or circle cutter when applicable. Accuracy is key for professional quality artwork. These tools give your work consistency. Plus, they save material by reducing waste and breakage.

When cutting strips, I cut a few more than I need and select the best, straightest strips for my project. The extra pieces find their way into smaller projects, pot melts or free flows. Nothing goes to waste.

Whenever possible, I opt to use running pliers over grozing or breaking pliers to break glass away from a sheet. Running pliers give the most reliable results. They work best if the glass being removed is at least as wide as the rubber tipped plier jaw. When breaking narrow or small curved pieces away, I choose grozing plies because the narrow jaw fits in tight places and allows me to get close to the score line.     

5 Use paper patterns.

Don’t hesitate to cut around a paper pattern to include an intricate shape in your work. This is a terrific way to transition away from strictly geometric designs and into pieces with lively organic elements.

Glass wants to break in a straight line. To cut rounded shapes, we make a series or gradual curves and break the excess glass away in steps until we have a glass shape that closely resembles our pattern.  

When cutting around a paper pattern piece, cut as close to the paper as possible without running into it. Beginners tend to cut a wide safety halo around the paper. It just postpones the inevitable. Be brave. Go for it. If the glass is going to break unfavorably the halo, no matter how heavenly, won’t prevent it.

Something to build on.  

The more time and effort you put into each step makes the next step easier and the finished product that much better. Don’t rush a project just to get it in the kiln. Give it the time it needs and produce your best work, every time. If you have to ask, “Is this good enough,” it probably isn’t. Do yourself a favor, re-do that piece or step. You can thank me later when you’re doing the, my piece came out awesome, happy dance.  

Go ahead. Cut it up!

Happy fusing!
Lisa 

Get FREE advanced glass fusing tips and trick in your inbox. Follow my blog for weekly inspiration.

• Facebook
• YouTube
• Instagram

NEW EVENT!

Make a Fused Glass Sink Webinar

April 21, 2022

You’re invited to join me for this comprehensive sink making webinar. In this LIVE event I’ll guide you step by step through the time-tested processes I use to make large-scale, functional vessels.

You’ll learn safe handling techniques for cutting oversized circles, how to fuse and slump thick pieces to retain consistent bowl height, plus trade-secrets for worry free drilling.

In addition to fabrication know-how, you’ll receive a complete supply list, specifics on kiln requirements, source information for the slumping mold and drill kit, as well as helpful installation tips.

In addition, I’ll demonstrate how to make a glittering dichroic sink. I’ll also show you how to make a cast glass sink from nipped glass pieces, dichroic bits and frit. Plus, you’ll be guided through the various cold-working steps I use to finish the cast glass sink edge to a glamorous, professional, quality polish.

With all the professional tricks revealed, you’ll gain the confidence and knowledge needed to make your own dazzling fused glass sink.

NEW DATE!

Make Fire & Ice!

Advanced Glass Fusing 4-Day, Hands-on Workshop May 24 – 27, 2022

In this class, you will push the boundaries art glass imposes. Students will explore innovative approaches to design and combine multiple advanced techniques to construct original art that reflects their own personal style. You’ll enjoy: the one-on-one instruction, making multifaceted projects, the well-equipped classroom, and the intimate class size.

You’ll love the concentrated, in-depth study and creative momentum you’ll gain while actively producing, nonstop for four consecutive days. You’ll leave class with a working knowledge of kiln operation, custom project specific firing guides, and the inspiration you’ve been craving to go bigger and do more elaborate works of fused glass art!

Join me for this intense workshop held in my private studio.
Wesley Chapel, Florida, 4-Day, Hands-on, Class size is limited.

Artwear Designed for Artists by Artists Tell them how you really feel with bold T-shirts, Eco-conscience tote bags and sassy mugs.

Get it now! Start fusing today!

Downloadable instructional videos for every skill level.

Instructional eBooks for every skill level.