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Celebrate Glowing Seasonal Home Accents

Fall in Florida is like spring up north in the sense that we’re coming off of months spent inside due to extreme temperatures outside. In Florida we were inside to avoid the heat, up north it’s to avoid the cold. Aa a result, Autumn’s crisp air and colorful foliage inspires renewed creativity and a longing to spend time in my glass studio.

Autumn also marks the upcoming holiday season. It means it’s time to start thinking about making fun seasonal themed fused glass projects to decorate my home and give as gifts. In recent years, I’ve really enjoyed displaying sparkling fused glass lanterns in my home, office, and yard. Lanterns are an easy way to include art glass in my decor to bring a special brightness and cheerful joy to these personal spaces.   

Especially around the holidays, I enjoy having soft accent lights around my home. So, I created a collection of lanterns I could switch out seasonally to add a festive atmosphere to my rooms all year long. And best of all, having a variety of design themes keeps the construction fresh and fun.

In my video Lumin-Essence I show how to make 8 shimmering lanterns. The lanterns range in complexity, but anyone with a flair for fusing can easily make them all. I will tell you though, they will challenge your fabrication skills. But in a good, try something new way that you’ll love. 

Fall Leaf is a quick and easy design to get you fired up and bring a seasonal touch to your home. It’s organic shape and bright, cheery colors make it the perfect complement to your fall decorations. Plus, the compact size makes it the perfect accent in small spaces or in dark areas where a little light would warm up your space.   

Brilliant gift ideas just in time for the holidays.

The first lantern I designed was inspired by relaxing summer vacations spent on a serene lake. A sailboat glides over calm waters with a picturesque view of mountains and pine trees behind. The custom made glass base provides a lift and an attractive pedestal to showcase the scenic setting. The front panel of the lantern bows out. The back panel bows in the opposite creating the perfect space for a candle or LED lights.

Weave is an especially fun lantern to make. It looks complicated and fragile, when in reality it’s easy and sturdy once assembled. Plus, it’s a terrific size for adding a touch of light to small or confined spaces. The assembly is simple. You cut a bunch of strips, lay them out in 4 alternating layers and then tack the pieces together in your kiln. The 4 sides are then glued together around a clear glass base. I like to add dichroic glass strips to mine for that super shine that lights up the room. The best part is Weave looks amazingly beautiful when lit. The open construction and rich colors cast a rainbow of colors on the table and surrounding walls.

Winter Wonderland is my favorite lantern. The clear glass backdrop is the perfect complement to the white and dichroic snowflakes. This dazzling lantern requires extra steps as the snowflakes are tacked together and then tacked on the clear front and back panels. Let me tell you, this one is worth your time. Winter Wonderland is a spectacular, glistening addition to any room.

Dogwood reminds me of flower gardening and the rebirth of nature in the spring. I selected a crisp, clean, simple color palate for this lantern. I used clear glass for the lattice because I wanted this lantern to have structure, but also a light, airy feel. The flowers are fun to make. They’re tacked together and then slumped in small bowl molds to give them form. Dogwood is assembled it multiple easy steps. The lantern sides are glued around a clear base. After the glue is dry the flowers are glued on one side at a time. When lit, Dogwood makes a dazzling centerpiece.  

Blue Mountains was inspired by the cool gradient colors of the Great Smoky Mountains. We all enjoy a refreshing trip to the mountains where stunning views and peaceful moments linger in our hearts. With this lantern you can relive those tranquil times every day. This lantern is super easy to make. You just layer several shades of blue. The beauty of Blue Mountains is in its simplicity of design and construction. You’ll love making this restful lantern.    

Red Heart is a darling combination of vivid color and lacy pattern. The great thing about this lantern is the small, fused glass design combined with a ready-made candle shelter, make it quick and easy to construct. You’ll definitely want one of these around come February. This dainty lantern is a perfect personalized gift to show family and friends they hold a special place in your heart.

Purple Heart may be dainty, but it lights up the room with an impressive glow. It’s another quick and easy project that makes a great gift. Just fuse glass strips and then glue them on a ready-made candle shelter. It doesn’t get easier.   

I hope this illuminating collection inspires you to be creative and celebrate family, friends, and all that we have to be thankful for. 

All of my multi-project videos come with a printable full size pattern eBook.

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Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki

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Festive Fall Pumpkin How-to

HELLO SEPTEMBER! What better way to usher in Autumn and welcome the bountiful harvest of Fall than with a spicy pumpkin bowl? And this tasty treat is so fast and easy to bake you’ll be tempted to fuse up an entire field full. Don’t let the subtle shading and intricate details of this piece fool you into thinking this project is time consuming. The beauty of this seasonal bowl is the speed and ease at which you can bring a rich combination of materials together to make a striking arrangement.  

To make this elegant pumpkin bowl draw a 10 ½ inch circle on paper. Give your pumpkin shape be adding a few curves to the top and bottom of the circle. Using the pattern as a guide, cut layer 1 out of Marigold. Cut a second piece of glass, for layer 2 the same shape and size out of Yellow patterned glass. Cut a stem shape out of opal green glass for layer 3. Grind the cut pieces and test the fit for accuracy. After grinding, be sure to clean and dry all the ground glass pieces. I use plain water and a cotton towel. A single edge razor blade works well to remove any stubborn glue or paint-based marker. 

Create lush shadows and contours with frit.

Use a sifter to apply an even layer of red powder frit on top of the marigold layer. Concentrate the frit and make gradual curved lines that accentuate the plump roundness of a vine ripened pumpkin. Use a small, dry paint brush to perfect your curves. Stack the yellow pattern glass on the frit coated marigold base. Add the green stem and fuse. Slump the fused glass in a shallow mold.  

Note: The finished size of this delightful pumpkin bowl is 10 inch. The fused glass is slumped into a shallow 11-inch ceramic mold. You can make the pumpkin larger or smaller to fit any size or shape mold you have.

Watch How to make a pumpkin bowl on my YouTube Channel below!

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If you enjoy reading my blog, I have a feature on my website you’ll like. From the home page click on any page. On the side bar you can read my Top 10 Blog Posts. The list updates every 48 hours so check back often.

Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki


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Endless Summer! Fish Plate

What better way to keep the warm, carefree days of summer flowing than with a fancy tropical fish plate. The cool thing about this brightly colored reef dweller is it combines easy cutting techniques along with a freestyle approach to assembly that make it fast, easy and fun to make.

Here’s how

Fish Plate How-To 12” x 9”

  1. Using the pattern as a guide cut a base out of clear glass. Cut as much as possible by hand. Use a wet saw to cut the deep inside curves. If you don’t have access to a saw, the base can be made up of pieces. Grind the base to remove sharp edges and improve the shape.
  2. Cut ¼” wide strips of color glass for the fish body. I used both opal and transparent glass. Spread the glass out to create an interesting color arrangement.
  3. Use the pattern as a guide to cut the head and tail out of opal glass. Cut the fins out of transparent glass. Grind the glass as needed.
  4. Arrange the strips on the paper pattern between the head and tail pieces. Include a few pieces of twisted cane between the glass strips for a trendy detail. Mark the glass strips and cut them to size.
  5. Bend stringer in a candle for a fun wavy pattern.
  6. Stack the head, tail and fins on the base layer. Glue the cut glass to the base with fuser’s glue. Add the eye and side fin.
  7. Detail the fish with an assortment of black and clear dichroic scrap and wavy stingers. 
  8. Fire the fish to a full fuse temperature.
  9. Slump the fish into a shallow mold.
  10. Enjoy!

Fish Plate Pattern

Fusing Guide

Segment 1: Ramp 300 F/hr to 1300 and hold 30 min.

Segment 2: Ramp 500 F/hr to 1465 and hold 10 min.

Segment 3: Ramp 9999(AFAP*) to 960 and hold 40 min.

Segment 4: Cool to room temperature.

*As fast as possible

Slumping Guide

Segment 1: Ramp 300 F/hr to 1265 and hold 10 min.

Segment 2: Ramp 9999(AFAP*) to 960 and hold 40 min.

Segment 3: Cool to room temperature.

*As fast as possible.

NOTE: Kilns fire differently. Test fire these guides in your kiln and then make adjustments as needed.

Fish Plate as seen in my Fun and Fanciful Fusing video.

Fun and Fanciful Fusing with Lisa Vogt.
“I LOVE the creative projects and use of color in this video. So inspiring!”

This exciting video is all about having fun! It’s about working with vibrant glass colors, making new project shapes, and getting excited about glass fusing again!

Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki

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12 Tips to Improve the Quality of Fused Glass Art

1. Clean your glass before cutting it.

It’s much easier to clean a single square piece of glass than it is to clean a bunch of small pieces. You’ll also do a better job because you can see any dust or hint of glue from the manufacturer’s stickers more easily on the larger surface area. I avoid using chemicals or cleaners that might introduce potential contaminants to my fused glass. I use plain water and clean cotton towels to clean and dry my glass.

2. Improve your accuracy by using the right tool for the job.

When cutting glass strips or circles for my projects I use certain tools to help improve the fit of my pieces. The benefits of using strip cutters and circle cutters are they reduce waste and scrap glass. Plus, their ease of use makes the project assembly faster, easier and more precise.

Wet saws are great for cutting intricate shapes that otherwise would have to be done in multiple pieces. This time and material saving approach also enables you to make more elaborate designs.

Mosaic nippers are handy to quickly and efficiently produce irregular pieces for playful patterns and whimsical designs.

3. Pick a color pallet and stick with it.

Being selective about the colors you use increases the strength of your artwork. It shows the purposeful design direction of the artist and at the same time establishes the mood of the piece. Use multiple shades of the same colors to create depth and greater visual interest. Select both transparent and opal glass in your color pallet to increase design depth.

4. Use high contrast colors.

Be bold! Combine striking colors to bring your design to life. Using high contrast colors enhances the linear details of your design. It’s an easy way to increase the impact and overall attractiveness of your glass art.  

5. Include a focal point.

A focal point gets the viewer’s attention, engages them and makes your art memorable. Focal points can be literal like a leaf, a bird or a wave. Easily recognizable images are relatable and endearing. While abstract designs also benefit from having a focal point too. You can include an unexpected shape or pop of color to make your art more engaging.     

6. Do your best work.

Be meticulous with every step. The time and effort you put into each step makes the next step faster, easier and more professional looking. Make sure your glass pieces fit well. If you ask yourself, is this good enough? It likely isn’t your best work. Redo that piece, re-cut the glass, do whatever it takes to make sure you’ll be proud of your finished work.     

7. Build your projects with two full layers of glass to make them visually attractive and structurally durable.

This method of assembly produces beautiful smooth edge quality and a uniform thickness throughout your finished piece of art. These characteristics elevate your work to a professional quality that’s consistent with high end, gallery worthy artwork.   

8. Make your pieces a little smaller than your slumping molds to ensure they slump evenly.

If you intend to slump your fused glass project measure the slumping mold you plan to use in advance of laying out your design. Make your project ½-inch smaller than the mold to accommodate any potential growth and to ensure the glass slumps evenly. When the glass is larger than the mold, or if it sits on the top edge of the mold, the glass may slip to one side and slump unevenly.  

9. Fire projects with other pieces with similar construction style.

It’s good practice to fire projects built with two layers together and fire projects made with one layer separately to ensure you have the best results possible for each type of construction. Large projects can be fired alongside small projects. Fire the kiln at a rate that’s appropriate for the largest project in the kiln.

10. If in doubt fire slower.

If you’re concerned about your firing rate it’s okay to fire your kiln more slowly and add more time to the annealing segment hold. This small change often improves your consistency and results in greater success.  

11. Re-prime your kiln shelf and slumping molds before use if they show signs of wear.

I clean and prime my kilns shelves every time in use them. Then I’m sure my glass won’t stick to the shelf. I prime my slumping molds when they show signs of wear. Wear includes: the primer looks thin or it’s pealing. This routine maintenance enables me to fuse and slump with confidence.

12. Allow your kiln and the glass inside to cool to room temperature before opening the kiln.

Be patient! I know it’s hard to resist opening the kiln. If I’m tempted to open my kiln, I ask myself what’s more important to me in six weeks from now? Is it that I get to see the project a few hours early OR that the project is cooled properly and stable? This idea gives me strength to be patient.  

Bonus 13. Take before and after pictures and take notes.

Pictures and notes help you gain confidence in your kiln work. They document your progress and are glowing examples of your artistic growth. They’re also useful for trouble shooting unexpected results. Pictures and notes help you reproduce your successes and learn from your failures.   

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Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki


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5 Pro Tips for Making Fused Glass Sinks and Large Bowls

Artists are the most generous people I know. We love to share our passion. We all want to make a more dramatic and memorable impression with our art. One of the bests ways to accomplish this is to go bigger and make large scale pieces that stand out from the crowd. 

But going bigger can be scary. You have to invest more time and material. And there are more design decisions to make. It’s a huge commitment and you want guarantees that the finished piece will exceed your expectations. Following are some fundamental tips that’ll greatly increase your success with all your fused glass artwork.  

1 Measuring the Slumping Mold

It seems trivial, but this is where most craftsman go wrong. Everyone wants to make the largest fused glass disc possible. They then measure the mold from the outer rim to the outer rim and cut their glass circles accordingly. They wrongly assume the glass that rests on the top rim of the mold will follow the center of the fused glass disc as it slumps into the mold. The problem is the glass on the flat rim drags. 

Therefore, it does not fall into the mold evenly. The result is a bowl with uneven height in the side walls. A lopsided bowl can be avoided simply by measuring across the inside of the mold and then cutting the glass ¼ to ½ inch smaller than that measurement. Yes, the bowl is slightly smaller. No one will notice. They’ll be too busy admiring your beautifully crafted, uniform bowl with even side walls all the way around. 

2 Durability is in the Design

When going larger it’s important to design your art in such a way that the glass thickness is uniform throughout the entire piece of art. If you design the round disc with two glass layers on one side and four glass layers on the opposite side, you’ll have unbalanced mass. This can cause the finished piece of art to break due to the stress of supporting its own weight. Instead, plan your design execution in advance to ensure you have the same number of glass layers across the entire disc. Small accents pieces decorating the top aren’t a concern, provided they’re added in moderation. 

3 Let it Shine

The beauty of glass is its transparency, and the attraction of glass fusing is our ability to mix transparent and opal materials, to create various color combinations and an infinite number of intricate patterns. The wonderful thing about going large is the extended size of the creative canvas. With more room, you have more opportunity to expand your design ideas and make a dynamic statement. So rather than fumble through, take time to plan a well thought out design. Consider including pre-tacked or fused glass components for added interest. Mix both transparent and opal glass to increase visible depth. The possibilities are endless.  

4 Do Your Best Work

Don’t cut corners. No excuses. If you think to ask, “Should I recut or redo this?” My answer is, “Yes.” The more time and effort you put into each step will greatly improve the overall quality of your finished pieces. Fabrication and execution are equally as important as design esthetics. If you implement this approach, every piece you produce will be a masterpiece.  

5 Fusing and Slumping

Slow it down. Larger usually also means thicker. You’ll dramatically increase your firing success rate by slowing down both the fusing schedule and the slumping schedule. I fire my large pieces at 300 degrees per hour and hold several times on the way up to 1465 degrees to fuse, and 1220 degrees to slump. I anneal the glass at 960 degrees for 180 minutes, for both fusing and slumping, and then slowly drop the temperature down to room temperature. By being conservative with the firing schedules, I achieve consistently beautiful results every time. You can too! 

Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki

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