Tag: Fused glass

You have choices when it comes to how to fire your projects. Different temperatures will result in different project characteristics. My goal here is to give you the tools to make educated decisions when selecting your firing method so you have greater control and more satisfying results. 

Fusing Defined

Fuse: To heat glass pieces in a kiln until they melt together into one piece.

Glass Fusing Process Temperatures

Full Fuse

Full Fuse 96 COE 1465°F (796°C) 90 COE 1480°F (804°C). Full fuse is the most common firing method. At this temperature the assembled glass project pieces melt together to form one smooth piece with visible, but not tactile, seams. The project has a smooth surface and round, shiny edges. I choose this temperature when I’m making decorative and functional artwork where I want a smooth, uniform surface.

Contour Fuse

Contour Fuse: 96 COE 1425°F (774°C), 90 COE 1400°F (760°C). A contour fuse is a fired look between full fuse and tack fuse. At this temperature the glass layers are fused, and the edges are soft and rounded. The project surface has both visible and physical texture. I use this temperature when I want to create a decorative project with physical texture that increases the surface area to reflect more light.

Tack Fuse

Tack Fuse 96 & 90 COE 1365°F (742°C). At this temperature, the glass pieces stick together. The project edges will be square and shiny. Design elements will retain their texture but are generally not sharp to touch. This is a great temperature for suncatchers and other ornaments where you want a light firing that really sparkles.

Combine Techniques

You can fire a project to a full fuse for the smooth rounded edge quality. Then refire it to a contour or tack fuse temperature with additional design elements on top for a unique and dazzling look.

My Building Process 

Most of my work is assembled with the two layers, plus accent method. I refer to the bottom layer as the base and the second as the design layer. The base layer and design layer are the same shape and size. The base layer is often a single piece of clear, but not always; sometimes it’s made up of cut pieces. The second design layer can be a single piece of glass, but often, its pieces fit together to make a specific pattern or design. The third accent layer is minimal, and it usually consists of small fusible elements that enhance the design theme. I choose to build this way because I get consistent results time after time. The finished size and shape of the artwork is predictable. The pieces come out of the kiln with beautiful, rounded edges and a consistent thickness that is both attractive and durable.   

It’s All Good   

Keep in mind, there’s no single right or wrong way to make any project. Personal preference, design style and function should all play a role in helping you decide which approach is best. The objective is to consciously choose your firing temperature based on a solid understanding of the results.  

Excerpt from Glass Fusing Terms as seen on my website.

For more in-depth instruction check out my videos.

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Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki

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Halloween is one of my favorite holidays. I love the wide variety of fun designs we can make to decorate our homes with a seasonal flare. I like this particular plate for its free-form shape. The graceful curve around the ghost’s head make it jump off the counter. But, don’t let the unusual shape scare you. The subtle contours are actually easy to cut. And, you can always grind the edge to fine tune the shape. Let’s get started.  

How-to:

Cut a 10 inch clear circle for the base layer. Using the pattern as a guide, cut the clear glass circle to match the irregular pattern shape. Grind the glass to remove sharp edges and smooth the shape.

Cut white glass to match the clear base layer. Using a wet saw, cut the background around the ghost’s head and arms away.  

Pro Tip: No saw needed. If you don’t have a saw, the white ghost layer can be made up of pieces. OR Cut the white layer to match the clear base layer. Then make the shapes that outline the ghost’s head and arms just like the eyes and mouth, with cut navy blue glass. 

Tack glue the white layer onto the clear base with a small amount of fuser’s glue. Let the glue dry before moving to the next step. Gluing keeps the white glass from sliding around when you apply the frit.

Glue Tip: I like to use Elmer’s white glue. I apply the smallest amount of glue possible with the tip of a toothpick. The tiny, pin head size dots of glue burn off during firing without leaving a distracting haze between the glass layers. 

Cut the ghost’s eyes and mouth out of navy blue glass. Grind them to improve the shape. Set them aside.

Color Tip: When possible, I prefer to use dark, navy blue instead of black. Black creates a visual hole in the artwork. While the dark blue adds a nice tonal quality that gives the art a more interesting look.    

Cut the letters out of bright, seasonal colors. Grind the letters to smooth out the edges. Set them aside.

Once the glue holding the white layer in place is dry, apply the frit. Using a spoon, pour power navy blue frit into the spaces that outline the ghost’s head and arms. Leave enough room to add fine aventurine blue for shading. Next add fine, aventurine blue. Concentrate the darker color on the right side of the openings to create a moody shadow effect.

Using a small, dry paint brush clean any excess frit off the white glass. Be meticulous with your clean up. It’s this type of attention to detail that will make a huge difference in the visual quality of your finished pieces.     

Frit Tip: Pile the frit as high as the white glass that contains it. This gives the transparent material strong color saturation, which in turn produces the dramatic, high contrast effect we’re trying to achieve. If you ask yourself, is it enough, add more frit.

Stack the cut glass eyes and mouth on the white layer. Arrange the cut glass letters on the bottom in a semi-circle.

Fire the assembled project to a full fuse temperature using the guide available on my website.

Slump the fused project in a shallow plate mold using the guide available on my website.

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Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki

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Except from my Painting with Frit Video.

Never underestimate the power of small!

Frit may be tiny, but make no mistake, this little powerhousecan make a huge, positive impact on your glass artwork. The beauty of frit is in its flexibility. I love to push that flexibility every chance I get. 

There are always several ways to approach any glass fusing project. But if you can incorporate frit of some sort into that project, you’ll have something unexpected that is unquestionably more engaging. And as self-serving as it is, we all want to dazzle people with our art. 

Next time you’re brainstorming how to build your project, consider replacing some or several design elements with frit. Play with different sizes; use mosaic, course, medium, fine and powder. Each size has its own unique visual characteristic that you will love after firing. Work with several shades of the same color such as light amber and medium amber to create a three-dimensional quality. Repeat the same color such as red in both transparent and opal glasses for greater contrast. 

Let’s dive in!

1 Go Overboard!

Strengthen your design by incorporating a subtle complimentary pattern in the background. When making the Flowering Tree, I cut a leafy tree limb stencil out of stiff paper. I then sifted soft green powders over the stencil to add the delicate woodland setting behind the flowering plant. The addition of the soft foliage unifies the overall project and makes it distinctly more appealing. The great thing about stenciling a design is that each piece you make will be slightly different and therefore each one has unique beauty.

2 Go Deeper!

Consider increasing the attraction of your work by repeating the same pattern on both the base layer and the top layer. Simply sift powders over a stencil on the base layer. Then turn the stencil ¼ turn and repeat the pattern on the second layer. Stack the layers to create a new, more elegant design. This quick little trick is a terrific way to increase visual depth and ramp up the sophistication of your artwork.  

3 Lighten Up!

Give your design a light source and you’ll have an immediate winner. With frit you can do it in a snap. Select frit in multiple shades of the same color. Use both transparent and opal versions of every color in your palette. Then gradually spread the frit working from light to dark. Blend the colors as you go for an even more engaging flow. This painterly technique rapidly transforms flat, lifeless images into lively three-dimensional masterpieces. 

4 Set the Mood!

Making a sherbet colored tropical sunset, a magical starry night or mysterious mist cloaked meadow is easy with frit. Think about how such enchanted places make you feel. Think about how they draw you in, tempt you to stay and make you wonder what hidden treasures wait for you just out of sight. Now take that feeling and make it tangible by mixing different colors of frit and you’ll create energetic settings that speaks out loud. 

5 Attention to Detail is Huge!

Next time your cut glass design doesn’t fit as accurately as you’d like, do what I do. Throw in a zinger. Fill that nasty crevice or inconvenient hole with frit in a color that contrasts the cut glass around it. No, you’re not fudging a mistake. You’re making something new, adding detail and highlighting the more important characteristics of your design.   

You Got This!

Frit may be small, but its applications are huge. Use it in small or even large doses and try new techniques for unlimited artistic possibilities. 

Except from my Painting with Frit Video.

Want to learn more? Check out my Painting with Frit video.

Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki

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Inspiration is Here!

1 Clean your glass before cutting it.

I use plain water and clean cotton towels. Avoid using cleaners or chemicals to clean your glass to prevent the introduction of contaminants that could react adversely with the glass.

2 Use the right tool for the job.

Streamline your project assembly, improve accuracy and reduce material waste with specialized tools. Use a strip cutter, circle cutter, wet saw and mosaic nippers when applicable for professional quality results.

3 Pick a color pallet and stick with it.

Be selective. Don’t use every crayon in the box. Choose a specific combination of glass colors to create an impactful design that shows an elevated level of sophistication and professionalism.   

4 Use high contrast colors.

Selecting bold colors adds energy and excitement to your artwork.

5 Include a focal point.

A focal point can be subject, shape or color related. A recognizable and relatable subject draws the viewers’ attention and makes your art memorable.

6 Do your best work.

Accuracy matters. If you ask yourself, is this good enough? It’s not. Redo that part to make the most professional quality art you can. Spend the time to make sure your shapes are smooth, and your pieces fit together nicely.

7 Design like a pro.

Assemble your projects to be both attractive and durable. Build your projects with two full layers of glass plus accents. This type of assembly ensures your project has uniform thickness throughout, smooth edge quality and an overall attractive appearance.    

8 Take your time.

Don’t rush the firing process. If you’re in doubt, fire your glass slower to ensure your project is successful. No peeking! You know who you are. After firing, let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening the lid.

9 Slump your project.

Slump or drape your flat fused glass to give it an interesting shape and unique form that increases the visual intricacy and graceful presence of your art.

10 Get creative with your display.

Make it sculptural. Create an attractive display that enhances the artwork. Give it lift so light passes through and illuminates the design.   

You got this!

Apply these tips and see a dramatic improvement in the quality and attractiveness of your fused glass art.

Follow my blog for weekly inspiration sent to your inbox! 

If you enjoy reading my blog, I have a feature on my website you’ll like. From the home page click on any page. On the side bar you can read my Top 10 Blog Posts. The list updates every 48 hours so check back often.

Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki

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