We love our glass and hate to waste even the smallest piece because glass is expensive. We buy colors that inspire us to be creative. However, our creativity leads to an overflow of random pieces we can’t throw away. So, how do store your scrap glass?
I asked my awesome Premium Video Members for help. They generously participated in a survey. The results are in and you will enjoy the helpful ideas they suggest. 35 members participated.
What glass do you fuse with?
How do you store your fusible scrap glass?
Over 90% recommend some variety of clear plastic container. The most common is plastic shoe boxes. Other great ideas include bins with lids, totes, craft boxes, stack able containers, dish pans, large plastic bags and save small bits in supermarket plastic cracker containers.
If you use two or more COEs, how do you keep them separate?
Over 50% use more than one COE. They store the different COEs in different locations and are careful to label the storage bins and locations accordingly.
How do you organize your scrap?
Do you have safe handling tips for scrap glass?
More than 1/3 recommend wearing gloves. Other great suggestions include look before you touch, pick the glass up firmly 1 piece at a time, use a tool like a ruler or wood dowel to move the scrap around, keep your workspace uncluttered, don’t pull scrap out when you’re in a hurry and have band aids on hand.
What’s your favorite use for scrap glass?
Many (94%) of our Premium Video Member survey participants have favorite ways to use their scrap glass.
Highlights include ornaments, dichroic pizza, pot melts, projects inspired by eBooks, florals, casting molds, kaleidoscope glass melts, collage, making dots, stack melts, jewelry, components for larger pieces, pattern bars, flow plates, flowers, coasters, feathers in molds, small parts in other projects, charcuterie boards capped with clear, for decoration, vitrograph, fired color samples, animals to use in bigger projects, mosaic, garden stakes, create layers, make pictures, snowflakes, making clear frit and small projects.
A huge thank you to the following Premium Video Members who generously gave their time, expertise and helpful suggestions.
Bonnie, Minnesota
Robert, North Carolina
Linda, Maryland
Diane, NC
Larry, Florida
Kathy, Wisconsin
Barb, Illinois
Judith, California.
Linda, Texas
Tara, New York
Sue, Wisconsin
Nell, Colorado
Gail, Texas
Terri, Arizona
Steve, Massachusetts
CLM, Oklahoma
Cora, Texas
Jennifer, Idaho
Barbara, Texas
Mary, Canada
Robert, Nevada
Beth, Wisconsin
Diana, Canada.
Jenny, Wisconsin
Bernice, Colorado
Shirley, Florida
Susan, Virginia
Anat, Israel
Mary, North Carolina
Liz, Victoria Aus
Join me and Niki in my studio while we reorganize my scrap glass and offer suggestions for storing your sheet glass.
The magical thing about glass fusing is you can work with the same materials for years and all it takes to fascinate you again is the introduction of a new component. The round Christmas ornament is far from a unique design. But add a new twist, a little bling and amazingly you have a delightfully fresh version of an old favorite.
At this hectic time of year, we’re all looking for fast and flashy projects that make great gifts. These easy to make ornaments are your ticket to wonderfully productive studio time. What makes these simple pieces so attractive is the paring of traditional holiday colors along with lively patterns.
Making the Ornament Bowl
Begin by cutting a 9-inch circle of clear glass for the ornament base. Cut 2 clear pieces of glass to represent the bail of the ornament. Select your murrine and cut it into 1/8-inch-long bits with mosaic nippers. Choose your holiday colors and cut them into strips. Arrange the strips on the clear base. Separate the cut strips with twisted cane. For added interest, include a strip of murrine.
Then, just for fun, rearrange your materials. Try different combinations until you have a pleasing pattern. I love this spontaneous type of assembly as it always produces a more dynamic design than I originally imagined.
Using a 9-inch round paper pattern as a guide, draw the circle shape on the strips and cane with a marker. Cut the strips and cane to fit neatly on the clear base glass. Cut clear dichroic to represent the bail of the ornament.
Cut narrow strips of dichroic on clear. Arrange the dichroic strips on the wide band of color to make the snowflakes. Be sure the dichroic coating side is down so it won’t scratch when the bowl is used.
Place the assembled glass in the kiln on a primed or shelf paper lined kiln shelf. Stack the 2 clear bails beside the circle. Overlap the white and the clear bails with the dichroic bail to bridge the parts when fused.
Making the Dichroic Ornaments
I plan to use these little beauties as festive spoon rests in the kitchen. The dichroic coating is fragile and will scratch if not protected by clear glass. When making functional art with dichroic glass, I assemble the projects differently. Unlike the first ornament, which was built on a clear base, the base of these small decorations will be made up of pieces. The pieces will then be capped with a single piece of clear glass to enhance the dichroic colors and protect the coating from getting scratched.
Begin by cutting 4-inch circles out of clear glass. Cut 2 bails for each of the ornaments out of clear glass. Set the circles and bails aside. Cut a fun assortment of 4-inch squares of dichroic on black into strips. Rearrange the strips to make four unique ornament designs. Add a few twisted canes for a lacy effect. Turn any textured glass strips over. Using the clear circles as a guide, trace the circle shape on the back of the dichroic strips with a silver marker. Cut the glass and cane to match the circle. Turn the cut glass over and rearrange the strips and cane. Cut a bail for each ornament out of dichroic on clear.
Place the dichroic and cane layer in the kiln on a primed or shelf paper lined kiln shelf. Cap the dichroic glass with the 4-inch clear glass circles. Stack the 2 clear bails beside the glass. Overlap the clear cap and the clear bails with the dichroic bail to bridge the parts when fused.
Full fuse the assembled projects using the guide in my tech docs link below.
If any of the circles are uneven, grind the edges as needed to improve the shapes.
Place the fused glass in slumping molds. Slump using the guide below in my Tech Docs link below.
I love including functional art in everyday life. And the kitchen, being the hub of family activity that it is, is a great place to enjoy personal, hand-made holiday decorations.
Full fuse and then slump your plates using my firing guides available on my website in the FREE Tech Docs section on Firing Guides & Graphs For 96 & 90 COE Fusible Glass
At this over scheduled time of year, we’re all longing for the peace and tranquility we associate with more studio time. Well here’s your excuse to log in more hours with your glass cutter and kiln. Don’t let these charming projects fool you; these flashy little beauties are fun, fast and easy to make. Plus, they make great gifts for family and friends.
You’re a Mean One Plate
These darling plates are great for table decorations or for serving sweet treats. The dishes photographed here measure 10-inch by 10-inch. But these smart designs also look terrific in 12-inch or 8-inch sizes. Feel free to adjust the size to fit any slumping mold you may have.
Star of David
To make these seasonal plates, cut a 10-inch by 10-inch piece of clear fusible glass for the base layer. Select your design and glass colors. Cut the design layer using the specific pattern you selected as a guide. Glue the design layer on top of the base layer with a small amount of fusers glue, or another appropriate adhesive. Set the project aside to let the glue dry. (I like to use a tiny amount of white Elmer’s school glue and apply it with a tooth pick. This glue dries fast and when used in tiny amounts burns off without a trace.) Using the pattern as a guide, cut the accent pieces that make up the design you selected. Grind the cut accent pieces for a nice, clean fit. Clean the glass with water and then dry it with a towel. (I prefer to use water over detergents or other solvents that could leave residue that might burn onto the glass surface during fusing.) Glue the accent pieces to the design layer with fusers glue. Let the glue dry before moving to the next step.
Christmas Tree
For Cookies for Santa, Star of David and You’re a Mean One, select the appropriate powder frit colors. Wearing a dust mask, sift your chosen powder evenly over the glass. Using a small dry paint brush or the tip of a pencil draw your message in the frit like you would draw in the sand. Remove any frit that might have fallen on the surrounding glass pieces with the dry paint brush.
Snowman
Chill out with this friendly winter visitor. This plate is fast and easy to make no frit needed.
Full fuse and then slump your plates using my firing guides available on my website in the FREE Tech Docs section on Firing Guides & Graphs For 96 & 90 COE Fusible Glass
For a limited time get your FREE Holiday project patterns on my website.
Fusing glass is amazing. We fusers cut glass and super heat it to make cool designs all our own. Solid colors make bold projects, but once you start playing with frit and see all the new and exciting possibilities, you’ll be eager to add this small material to all your big projects.
Frit is crushed fusible glass. Oceanside Compatible frit comes in 5 grain sizes: powder, fine, medium, course and mosaic. Each size is available in 8.5 oz. and 4 lb. jars. Each frit size has unique visual characteristics that you can push to ramp up your fused glass projects. Let’s go over the many possibilities one size at a time.
Powder
Powder has the silky consistency of confectioners’ sugar. It appears smooth and has uniform color coverage after fusing. Powder can be used as filler between cut glass pieces, to add shading, to add patterns and even as a repair tool. I use powder when I want super strong color saturation along with multiple color blends.
Shere Power by Lisa Vogt
Shere Power is a great example. Wherever I wanted tight control over my line quality and solid color saturation, I used cut glass to represent the design. The cut glass was fixed to a clear base glass with fuser’s glue. The glue keeps the pieces from moving when applying the frit. Once the glue was dry, I poured powder frit between the pieces and blended the colors with a wide, dry paint brush and a palate knife. The blended powders give the art a beautiful painterly quality that dramatically contrasts with the solid color fields surrounding it.
Other fun uses include using powder to add shadows to a solid base color. Apply medium and dark green powder on top of light green glass to add shading to your design. Or sift the powder over a stencil to add a crisp and intricate pattern to your project.
One of my favorite uses for powder is to fill inconvenient gaps between my cut glass pieces. Think of it like grouting tile. It’s easy and affective. Work a small amount of powder into the gaps with a narrow paint brush. For added pop, use a bright color that contrasts your design’s color palate.
Powder Pros: It’s fast and easy to create subtle or dramatic color blends that support your specific creative vision. Adding shading and pattern is a snap.
Powder Cons: Cleanup is time consuming. The powder requires meticulous cleanup to ensure the surrounding solid glass color isn’t muddied. After removing any excess power with a brush, I go over the surface of the glass with the corner of a damp towel or a damp Q-tip depending upon the size of the surface area being cleaned.
Tips for working with powder.
Don’t be skimpy when you use powder frit. For bright vivid colors, it’s necessary to fill the space between your cut glass pieces to the top edge, in effect making the frit 1/8 inch thick.
Be daring and use high contrast colors, they display better in the finished piece.
Opal glass colors tend to give a more dramatic effect than transparent colors.
Know your glass colors. Powder frit specifically, looks lighter in the jar than the actual glass color. Light blue and dark blue look the same just as transparent light green and opal dark green look the same. If you’re not sure of the intensity or opacity of a powder, look at a larger size frit like, medium or course. Or find a piece of sheet glass with the same color code number, compare it to the frit and the frit color and shade will be obvious.
Powder in high concentration, like in a casting mold, looks milky after fusing. If you want to use powder in a mold, layer it with clear in medium, course or mosaic size frit. Using this technique will improve the transparency of the cast glass project.
Poppy Sink by Lisa Vogt
Fine Frit
Fine frit has the consistency of granulated sugar. It appears grainy, like small uniform dots after fusing. Like powder, fine can be used to fill gaps between cut pieces of glass. The larger grain size makes it faster and easier to clean up than powder. Fine is also great for shading when you want a slight textural look to the shadows.
Fine Pros: Cleanup is fast and easy. In the same application, it takes less material to do the same job with fine than it does with powder. Fine is a great filler to use between larger frit. It gives you complete color coverage and prevents the base glass from peeking through.
Fine Cons: Color blends within this same size have a grainy appearance after fusing.
Tips for working with Fine.
Use both transparent and opal frit glasses together for greater visual depth and to create shading.
Use fine frit together with other frit sizes to produce visual textures.
Sea Turtle by Lisa Vogt
Medium Frit
Medium frit has the texture of course sand. When fused, medium frit retains the sand-like visual appearance. I use this size frit when I want to fill in larger areas with strong color quickly. It can also be used to create shading and color blends provided you welcome variations in the coverage which depend on how much frit or how little frit is applied.
Medium Pros: Medium frit provides you with quick, easy coverage of large areas with strong color saturation.
Medium Cons: This frit has a grainy look, and the base glass may peek through the frit unless your layer is thick.
Use both transparent and opal glasses in combination for greater visual depth and to create shading.
Use medium and fine frit together for new color blends and to add visual texture.
Party Animals by Lisa Vogt
Course Frit
Course frit has the consistency of small pebbles. The pebble look remains after fusing. This frit is great for filling large areas where you want visual texture to contrast solid fields elsewhere in the project.
Course Pros: Course frit covers a lot of area fast, and it leaves an appealing pattern behind after firing.
Course Cons: The base glass will be visible between this larger size grain.I fill in around course with both medium and fine frit to intensify the color and hide the base.
Tips for working with Course.
Use both transparent and opal glasses in combination for greater visual depth and to create shading.
Use fine and medium frit together with course to produce pleasing textures.
Flowering Tree by Lisa Vogt
Mosaic Frit
Mosaic has a wide variety of glass shapes and sizes within the jar. This frit leaves a vein-like impression after fusing. I use mosaic size when I have a lot of space to fill and when I want to create an organic pattern.
Tips for working with Mosaic.
Clear glass layered on top of a color dilutes the color below. It’s like adding water to paint. I like to put clear mosaic pieces on top of select elements in my work to create subtle, lighter variations in the original glass color.
During assembly, glue the mosaic pieces down with fusers glue so they don’t move when you fill in the spaces in between.
Use both transparent and opal glasses in combination for greater visual depth and to build interest.
Use fine, medium and course frit to fill gaps and produce interesting color combinations and exciting textures.
Paisley Dish by Lisa vogt
Put it all Together.
Frit is a terrific medium for making landscapes or other images where you want to create an engaging depth of field. In nature, objects in the distance are lighter in color, and they visually have less detail. When making landscapes, I use the different frit sizes to emphasize those subtle differences.
I use powder to render the sky because I can get smooth, gradual color changes. I use fine frit to create the tree line and other filler foliage in the distance. The grain size stands out in front of the powder and yet doesn’t compete with the foreground. Medium frit works well for the mid-range elements that require more intricate detail, like bushes or flowers. Course frit is well suited for objects in the foreground, such as flowering plants or sweeping trees. These design elements carry more visual weight and tie the design together. Mosaic frit is great for specific up-close subject matter like a path or bridge. Such solid, recognizable focal points lure the viewer into the design.
Oceanside Compatiblefrit comes packed in 8.5 oz. and 4 lb. jars. For the larger sizes like course and mosaic you may consider crushing your own frit. The advantage to working from the jars though, is you have uniform sizes within the jars and one single color throughout. Plus, there’s no risk of contaminants like dirt or metal shavings that are present when you crush your own glass. Personally, I prefer to jump right into the design and fabrication phases rather than spend time swinging a hammer and sifting glass.
I hope this round-up entices you to start incorporating frit in your new work. It is such a versatile and easy to apply material. You will love the creative flexibility it affords.
Want to learn more?
Join me TODAY in my LIVE Fusing with Frit webinar.
Don’t miss this exciting opportunity to SEE how you can use frit to jazz up your artwork. Join me and I’ll show you how to work with frit in a LIVE Fusing with Frit Webinar. I look forward to seeing YOU today!
Clever glass fusers know that using strong line quality and bold color saturation in combination is an effective way to create stand-out works of art.
Now take such trustworthy techniques and sprinkle in gradient blends and subtle shading achieved using frit. You’ll be amazed just how quickly your artwork advances to a new, exciting level of sophistication.
In this comprehensive webinar, I’ll show you how to apply several methods I employ to add the striking, painterly-quality I have developed to improve the impact of your glass fusing projects.
Sheer Power by Lisa Vogt
I demonstrate how to make SEVEN projects in this Webinar including a sea turtle, flowering tree, to beach scene and more!
You’ll learn: how to evaluate a design to maximize the imagery, steps for successful fabrication and practical tips for building professional quality, finished pieces.
Along with my step-by-step instruction, you’ll also receive complete material lists and project-specific firing guides.
I hope to see YOU today!
Happy fusing! Lisa
Get FREE advanced glass fusing tips and trick in your inbox. Follow my blog for weekly inspiration.
Clever glass fusers know that using strong line quality and bold color saturation in combination is an effective way to create stand-out works of art.
Now take such trustworthy techniques and sprinkle in gradient blends and subtle shading achieved using frit. You’ll be amazed just how quickly your artwork advances to a new, exciting level of sophistication.
In this comprehensive webinar, I’ll show you how to apply several methods I employ to add the striking, painterly-quality I have developed to improve the impact of your glass fusing projects.
I demonstrate how to make SEVEN projects in this Webinar including a sea turtle, flowering tree, to beach scene and more!
You’ll learn: how to evaluate a design to maximize the imagery, steps for successful fabrication and practical tips for building professional quality, finished pieces.
Along with my step-by-step instruction, you’ll also receive complete material lists and project-specific firing guides.
I hope to see YOU Tuesday!
Happy fusing! Lisa
Get FREE advanced glass fusing tips and trick in your inbox. Follow my blog for weekly inspiration.
