At this over scheduled time of year, we’re all longing for the peace and tranquility we associate with more studio time. Well here’s your excuse to log in more hours with your glass cutter and kiln. Don’t let these charming projects fool you; these flashy little beauties are fun, fast and easy to make. Plus, they make great gifts for family and friends.
You’re a Mean One Plate
These darling plates are great for table decorations or for serving sweet treats. The dishes photographed here measure 10-inch by 10-inch. But these smart designs also look terrific in 12-inch or 8-inch sizes. Feel free to adjust the size to fit any slumping mold you may have.
Star of David
To make these seasonal plates, cut a 10-inch by 10-inch piece of clear fusible glass for the base layer. Select your design and glass colors. Cut the design layer using the specific pattern you selected as a guide. Glue the design layer on top of the base layer with a small amount of fusers glue, or another appropriate adhesive. Set the project aside to let the glue dry. (I like to use a tiny amount of white Elmer’s school glue and apply it with a tooth pick. This glue dries fast and when used in tiny amounts burns off without a trace.) Using the pattern as a guide, cut the accent pieces that make up the design you selected. Grind the cut accent pieces for a nice, clean fit. Clean the glass with water and then dry it with a towel. (I prefer to use water over detergents or other solvents that could leave residue that might burn onto the glass surface during fusing.) Glue the accent pieces to the design layer with fusers glue. Let the glue dry before moving to the next step.
Christmas Tree
For Cookies for Santa, Star of David and You’re a Mean One, select the appropriate power frit colors. Wearing a dust mask, sift your chosen powder evenly over the glass. Using a small dry paint brush or the tip of a pencil draw your message in the frit like you would draw in the sand. Remove any frit that might have fallen on the surrounding glass pieces with the dry paint brush.
Snowman
Chill out with this friendly winter visitor. This plate is fast and easy to make no frit needed.
Full fuse and then slump your plates using my firing guides available on my website.
The magical thing about glass fusing is you can work with the same materials for years and all it takes to fascinate you again is the introduction of a new component. The round Christmas ornament is far from a unique design. But add a new twist, a little bling and amazingly you have a delightfully fresh version of an old favorite.
At this hectic time of year, we’re all looking for fast and flashy projects that make great gifts. These easy to make ornaments are your ticket to wonderfully productive studio time. What makes these simple pieces so attractive is the paring of traditional holiday colors along with lively patterns.
Making the Ornament Bowl
Begin by cutting a 9-inch circle of clear glass for the ornament base. Cut 2 clear pieces of glass to represent the bail of the ornament. Select your murrine and cut it into 1/8-inch-long bits with mosaic nippers. Choose your holiday colors and cut them into strips. Arrange the strips on the clear base. Separate the cut strips with twisted cane. For added interest, include a strip of murrine.
Then, just for fun, rearrange your materials. Try different combinations until you have a pleasing pattern. I love this spontaneous type of assembly as it always produces a more dynamic design than I originally imagined.
Using a 9-inch round paper pattern as a guide, draw the circle shape on the strips and cane with a marker. Cut the strips and cane to fit neatly on the clear base glass. Cut clear dichroic to represent the bail of the ornament.
Cut narrow strips of dichroic on clear. Arrange the dichroic strips on the wide band of color to make the snowflakes. Be sure the dichroic coating side is down so it won’t scratch when the bowl is used.
Place the assembled glass in the kiln on a primed or shelf paper lined kiln shelf. Stack the 2 clear bails beside the circle. Overlap the white and the clear bails with the dichroic bail to bridge the parts when fused.
Making the Dichroic Ornaments
I plan to use these little beauties as festive spoon rests in the kitchen. The dichroic coating is fragile and will scratch if not protected by clear glass. When making functional art with dichroic glass, I assemble the projects differently. Unlike the first ornament, which was built on a clear base, the base of these small decorations will be made up of pieces. The pieces will then be capped with a single piece of clear glass to ramp up the dichroic colors and protect the coating from scratches.
Begin by cutting 4-inch circles out of clear glass. Cut 2 bails for each of the ornaments out of clear glass. Set the circles and bails aside. Cut a fun assortment of 4-inch squares of dichroic on black into strips. Rearrange the strips to make four unique ornament designs. Add a few twisted canes for a lacy effect. Turn any textured glass strips over. Using the clear circles as a guide, trace the circle shape on the back of the dichroic strips with a silver marker. Cut the glass and cane to match the circle. Turn the cut glass over and rearrange the strips and cane. Cut a bail for each ornament out of dichroic on clear.
Place the dichroic and cane layer in the kiln on a primed or shelf paper lined kiln shelf. Cap the dichroic glass with the 4-inch clear glass circles. Stack the 2 clear bails beside the glass. Overlap the clear cap and the clear bails with the dichroic bail to bridge the parts when fused.
Full fuse all five ornaments using the guide below.
If any of the circles are uneven, grind the edges as needed to improve the shapes.
Place the fused glass in slumping molds. Slump using the guide below.
I love including functional art in everyday life. And the kitchen, being the hub of family activity that it is, is a great place to enjoy personal, hand-made holiday decorations.
Fusing Guide
Segment 1: Ramp 300 F/hr to 1300 and hold 30 min.
Segment 2: Ramp 500F/hr to 1465 and hold 10 min.
Segment 3: Ramp 9999(AFAP*) to 960 and hold 40 min.
Segment 4: Cool to room temperature.
*As fast as possible
Slumping Guide
Segment 1: Ramp 300 F/hr to 1265 and hold 10 min.
Segment 2: Ramp 9999(AFAP*) to 960 and hold 40 min.
Segment 3: Cool to room temperature.
*As fast as possible
NOTE: Kilns fire differently. Test fire these guides in your kiln, adjust as needed.
Here’s the glass I used to make these ornaments.
Glitzy Ornament Bowl, 9 Inch Round
Oceanside Glasstile 96
Clear, 100SF, 1 Sq. Ft. for Base
White, 200SF, ½ Sq. Ft for Design
Dark Green, 220-76SF, ¼ Sq. Ft for Design
Flame 60-602-96, ½ Sq. Ft. for Design
Twisted Cane, Assorted colors, 17 for Design
Murine, Red, White & Green, 1 for Design
CBS Dichroic on Clear, Scrap
Glitzy Ornament Dishes, 4 Inch Round
CBS Dichroic on Black
Assorted colors, 4 – 4 Inch x 4 Inch for Base Layer
As a life-long learner myself, I know it sometimes takes a change of scenery, a challenging new educational experience, and the encouragement of an experienced instructor to advance my skills and help me grow.
Are you ready to grow?
Join me and take your glass fusing to the next level!
Join my Premium Video Membership and gain access to ALL 40 courses TODAY! With new courses added monthly!
It’s always a thrill when I come up with a fun, way to add dazzling art glass to my home, office, and yard. I’ve designed a series of fused glass lanterns that bring a special brightness and cheerful joy to any setting.
I enjoy having soft accent lights around my home. So, I thought, why not create a collection of pieces I could switch out seasonally to add a festive atmosphere to my rooms all year long. Designing such a wide variety of themes also kept the construction fresh and fun.
In my video Lumin-Essence I share how to make 8 shimmering lanterns. The lanterns range in complexity, but anyone with a flair for fusing can easily make them all. I will tell you though, they will challenge your fabrication skills. But in a good way by trying something new that you’ll love.
The first lantern I designed is inspired by relaxing summer vacations spent on a serene lake. A sailboat glides over calm waters with a picturesque view of mountains and pine trees behind. The custom-made glass base provides a lift and an attractive pedestal to showcase the scenic setting. The front panel of the lantern bows out. The back panel bows in the opposite creating the perfect space for a candle or LED lights.
Weave is an especially fun lantern to make. It looks complicated and fragile, when it’s easy and sturdy once assembled. Plus, it’s a terrific size for adding a touch of light to small or confined spaces. The assembly is simple. You cut a bunch of strips, lay them out in 4 alternating layers and then tack the pieces together in your kiln. The 4 sides are then glued together around a clear glass base. I like to add dichroic glass strips to mine for that super shine that lights up the room. The best part is Weave looks amazingly beautiful when lit. The open construction and rich colors cast a rainbow of colors on the table and surrounding walls.
Winter Wonderland is my favorite lantern. The clear glass backdrop is the perfect complement to the white and dichroic snowflakes. This dazzling lantern requires extra steps as the snowflakes are tacked together and then tacked on the clear front and back panels. Let me tell you, this one is worth your time. Winter Wonderland is a spectacular, glistening addition to any room.
Dogwood reminds me of flower gardening and the rebirth of nature in the spring. I selected a crisp, clean, simple color palate for this lantern. I used clear glass for the lattice because I wanted this lantern to have structure, but also a light, airy feel. The flowers are fun to make. They’re tacked together and then slumped in small bowl molds to give them form. Dogwood is assembled it multiple easy steps. The lantern sides are glued around a clear base. After the glue is dry the flowers are glued on one side at a time. When lit, Dogwood makes a dazzling centerpiece.
Blue Mountains were inspired by the cool gradient colors of the Great Smoky Mountains. We all enjoy a refreshing trip to the mountains where stunning views and peaceful moments linger in our hearts. With this lantern you can relive those tranquil times every day. This lantern is super easy to make. You just layer several shades of blue. The beauty of Blue Mountains is in its simplicity of design and construction. You’ll love making this restful lantern.
Red Heart is a darling combination of vivid color and lacy pattern. The great thing about this lantern is the small, fused glass design combined with a ready-made candle shelter, make it quick and easy to make. You’ll definitely want one of these around come February. This dainty lantern is a perfect personalized gift to show family and friends they hold a special place in your heart.
Fall Leaf is another quick and easy design you can make to bring a seasonal touch to your home. Its organic shape and bright, cheery colors make it the perfect complement to your fall decorations.
Purple Heart may be dainty, but it lights up the room with an impressive glow. It’s another quick and easy project that makes a great gift. Just fuse glass strips and then glue them on a ready-made candle shelter. It doesn’t get easier.
I hope this illuminating collection inspires you to be creative and celebrate family, friends, and all that we have to be thankful for.
Let the festivities begin! Fall is a season for celebrating family, friends and feasting. At my house, the dining room table is the center of attention at this time of year. Accordingly, I like to decorate the table with a special piece of art that brings cheerful energy to our gatherings. This brightly colored turkey is the perfect adornment for such joyous occasions. It may look complicated, but it’s actually fast and easy to make.
To get started, cut out the paper pattern with scissors. To make the base, trace the turkey shape on clear glass with a marker. Cut as much of the clear glass as possible by hand. Use a glass saw to detail the inside cuts. The clear base layer can be made up of pieces if you don’t have access to a saw. Grind the clear glass to remove sharp edges and improve the shape.
For the colorful design layer, cut the pattern up with scissors. Affix the paper pieces to the appropriate colored glass with a glue stick. Cut the pieces as closely to the paper as possible. Cut a second turkey body out of patterned dichroic on clear. Then grind the cut glass pieces to improve the shapes and remove any sharp edges.
Place the clear base on a second pattern. Apply a small amount of fuser’s glue to the clear base and then assemble the colorful design layer on top. Stack the dichroic body on top. Allow the glue to dry until the pieces are secure. If you move to the next step too soon, the glass pieces will slide around when you apply the frit. This causes blurred edges that I feel distract from the design.
Using a spoon, pour a small amount of fine frit onto the turkey. Work the frit down into any gaps with a paint brush. This step gives the finished artwork a nice added detail. I selected a complimentary yellow to highlight this bold color palate. When using this technique, I intentionally pick fine frit instead of powder. The excess fine frit is easier to clean off the surface of the project than powder which tends to stick.
Next add a dichroic dot for an eye and a yellow triangle for a beak. Now for a little bling. Nip wavy Firestrips to size and place them on the turkey’s feathers for a flashy zinger.
The assembled turkey is fused and then slumped over a barrel shaped mold. The slumped turkey is then glued to the front of the clear candle shelter. Colored fused glass strips cover the remainder of the clear candle shelter to give it a festive flare all the way around.
Using a strip cutter cut 16 strips total ½” wide, 5 7/8” long out of red, orange and green glass. Cut 16 strips of iridized clear the same size. Stack the clear iridized strips on the color strips.
Fuse the turkey and strips to a full fuse temperature using the guide below.
Slump the fused turkey over the ceramic mold.
Glue the slumped turkey to the clear candle shelter with E6000 adhesive. Tape the fused glass to the clear shelter to ensure it doesn’t slide off. Let the glue dry overnight.
Glue the fused glass strips to the remainder of the clear shelter. Tape them in place. Let the glue dry overnight.
Double duty. This fancy turkey project can be used as a candle holder or a flower vase. Either way, it’s a beautiful seasonal addition to any decor.
Turkey candle holder as seen in Glass Patterns Quarterly
Fusing Guide
Segment 1: Ramp 300 F/hr to 1300 and hold 30 min.
Segment 2: Ramp 500F/hr to 1465 and hold 10 min.
Segment 3: Ramp 9999(AFAP*) to 960 and hold 40 min.
Segment 4: Cool to room temperature.
*As fast as possible
Slumping Guide
Segment 1: Ramp 300 F/hr to 1265 and hold 10 min.
Segment 2: Ramp 9999(AFAP*) to 960 and hold 40 min.
Segment 3: Cool to room temperature.
*As fast as possible
NOTE: Kilns fire differently. Test fire these guides in your kiln and then make adjustments as needed.
Oceanside 96 Glass
100SF Clear for the turkey base layer, ½ Sq. Ft.
Oceanside 96 Glass
60-2700-96 Orange/Clear for turkey and strips, ½ Sq. Ft.
60-6120-96 Grenadine/Clear for turkey and strips, ½ Sq. Ft.
60-7550-96-4 Fern Green/Clear for strips, ¼ Sq. Ft.
61-00-96-IR-4 Clear Thin Iridized for strips, 1 Sq. Ft.
Fusing glass is amazing. We fusers cut glass and super heat it to make cool designs all our own. Solid colors make bold projects, but once you start playing with frit and see all the new and exciting possibilities, you’ll be eager to add this small material to all your big projects.
Frit is crushed fusible glass. Oceanside Compatible frit comes in 5 grain sizes: powder, fine, medium, course and mosaic. Each size is available in 8.5 oz. and 4 lb. jars. Each frit size has unique visual characteristics that you can push to ramp up your fused glass projects. Let’s go over the many possibilities one size at a time.
Powder
Powder has the silky consistency of confectioners’ sugar. It appears smooth and has uniform color coverage after fusing. Powder can be used as filler between cut glass pieces, to add shading, to add patterns and even as a repair tool. I use powder when I want super strong color saturation along with multiple color blends.
Shere Power by Lisa Vogt
Shere Power is a great example. Wherever I wanted tight control over my line quality and solid color saturation, I used cut glass to represent the design. The cut glass was fixed to a clear base glass with fuser’s glue. The glue keeps the pieces from moving when applying the frit. Once the glue was dry, I poured powder frit between the pieces and blended the colors with a wide, dry paint brush and a palate knife. The blended powders give the art a beautiful painterly quality that dramatically contrasts with the solid color fields surrounding it.
Other fun uses include using powder to add shadows to a solid base color. Apply medium and dark green powder on top of light green glass to add shading to your design. Or sift the powder over a stencil to add a crisp and intricate pattern to your project.
One of my favorite uses for powder is to fill inconvenient gaps between my cut glass pieces. Think of it like grouting tile. It’s easy and affective. Work a small amount of powder into the gaps with a narrow paint brush. For added pop, use a bright color that contrasts your design’s color palate.
Powder Pros: It’s fast and easy to create subtle or dramatic color blends that support your specific creative vision. Adding shading and pattern is a snap.
Powder Cons: Cleanup is time consuming. The powder requires meticulous cleanup to ensure the surrounding solid glass color isn’t muddied. After removing any excess power with a brush, I go over the surface of the glass with the corner of a damp towel or a damp Q-tip depending upon the size of the surface area being cleaned.
Tips for working with powder.
Don’t be skimpy when you use powder frit. For bright vivid colors, it’s necessary to fill the space between your cut glass pieces to the top edge, in effect making the frit 1/8 inch thick.
Be daring and use high contrast colors, they display better in the finished piece.
Opal glass colors tend to give a more dramatic effect than transparent colors.
Know your glass colors. Powder frit specifically, looks lighter in the jar than the actual glass color. Light blue and dark blue look the same just as transparent light green and opal dark green look the same. If you’re not sure of the intensity or opacity of a powder, look at a larger size frit like, medium or course. Or find a piece of sheet glass with the same color code number, compare it to the frit and the frit color and shade will be obvious.
Powder in high concentration, like in a casting mold, looks milky after fusing. If you want to use powder in a mold, layer it with clear in medium, course or mosaic size frit. Using this technique will improve the transparency of the cast glass project.
Poppy Sink by Lisa Vogt
Fine Frit
Fine frit has the consistency of granulated sugar. It appears grainy, like small uniform dots after fusing. Like powder, fine can be used to fill gaps between cut pieces of glass. The larger grain size makes it faster and easier to clean up than powder. Fine is also great for shading when you want a slight textural look to the shadows.
Fine Pros: Cleanup is fast and easy. In the same application, it takes less material to do the same job with fine than it does with powder. Fine is a great filler to use between larger frit. It gives you complete color coverage and prevents the base glass from peeking through.
Fine Cons: Color blends within this same size have a grainy appearance after fusing.
Tips for working with Fine.
Use both transparent and opal frit glasses together for greater visual depth and to create shading.
Use fine frit together with other frit sizes to produce visual textures.
Sea Turtle by Lisa Vogt
Medium Frit
Medium frit has the texture of course sand. When fused, medium frit retains the sand-like visual appearance. I use this size frit when I want to fill in larger areas with strong color quickly. It can also be used to create shading and color blends provided you welcome variations in the coverage which depend on how much frit or how little frit is applied.
Medium Pros: Medium frit provides you with quick, easy coverage of large areas with strong color saturation.
Medium Cons: This frit has a grainy look, and the base glass may peek through the frit unless your layer is thick.
Use both transparent and opal glasses in combination for greater visual depth and to create shading.
Use medium and fine frit together for new color blends and to add visual texture.
Party Animals by Lisa Vogt
Course Frit
Course frit has the consistency of small pebbles. The pebble look remains after fusing. This frit is great for filling large areas where you want visual texture to contrast solid fields elsewhere in the project.
Course Pros: Course frit covers a lot of area fast, and it leaves an appealing pattern behind after firing.
Course Cons: The base glass will be visible between this larger size grain.I fill in around course with both medium and fine frit to intensify the color and hide the base.
Tips for working with Course.
Use both transparent and opal glasses in combination for greater visual depth and to create shading.
Use fine and medium frit together with course to produce pleasing textures.
Flowering Tree by Lisa Vogt
Mosaic Frit
Mosaic has a wide variety of glass shapes and sizes within the jar. This frit leaves a vein-like impression after fusing. I use mosaic size when I have a lot of space to fill and when I want to create an organic pattern.
Tips for working with Mosaic.
Clear glass layered on top of a color dilutes the color below. It’s like adding water to paint. I like to put clear mosaic pieces on top of select elements in my work to create subtle, lighter variations in the original glass color.
During assembly, glue the mosaic pieces down with fusers glue so they don’t move when you fill in the spaces in between.
Use both transparent and opal glasses in combination for greater visual depth and to build interest.
Use fine, medium and course frit to fill gaps and produce interesting color combinations and exciting textures.
Paisley Dish by Lisa vogt
Put it all Together.
Frit is a terrific medium for making landscapes or other images where you want to create an engaging depth of field. In nature, objects in the distance are lighter in color, and they visually have less detail. When making landscapes, I use the different frit sizes to emphasize those subtle differences.
I use powder to render the sky because I can get smooth, gradual color changes. I use fine frit to create the tree line and other filler foliage in the distance. The grain size stands out in front of the powder and yet doesn’t compete with the foreground. Medium frit works well for the mid-range elements that require more intricate detail, like bushes or flowers. Course frit is well suited for objects in the foreground, such as flowering plants or sweeping trees. These design elements carry more visual weight and tie the design together. Mosaic frit is great for specific up-close subject matter like a path or bridge. Such solid, recognizable focal points lure the viewer into the design.
Oceanside Compatiblefrit comes packed in 8.5 oz. and 4 lb. jars. For the larger sizes like course and mosaic you may consider crushing your own frit. The advantage to working from the jars though, is you have uniform sizes within the jars and one single color throughout. Plus, there’s no risk of contaminants like dirt or metal shavings that are present when you crush your own glass. Personally, I prefer to jump right into the design and fabrication phases rather than spend time swinging a hammer and sifting glass.
I hope this round-up entices you to start incorporating frit in your new work. It is such a versatile and easy to apply material. You will love the creative flexibility it affords.
Happy fusing! Lisa & Niki
Want to learn more?
Get FREE advanced glass fusing tips and trick in your inbox. Follow my blog for weekly inspiration.
