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Create Visual Excitement with Pattern & Shape

Pattern and shape are two of the simplest elements that can easily be manipulated to dramatically increase the appeal of fused glass art. By adding unique patterns and building new shapes you can draw the viewer in and lock their attention tight. In the end, isn’t that our goal, to inspire people with our art?

You’ve enjoyed success making the usual plates, bowls and vases following practices and guidelines laid out by the experts. But the element of surprise and the thrill of the unexpected success has gone missing. If you find yourself blindly staring at the glass wishing for inspiration, then it’s time to break the rules. Make art that excites you again.

Before you run wildly through your glass studio, be sure to set this excursion up for success. Start by studying finished art that you find attractive. Define what it is about the piece that appeals to you. Is it the shape, the colors, the pattern, or the design? Take that element and put it aside temporarily. Maybe loosely sketch it out on paper for quick reference later. Do this for three individual pieces of art.

Brilliant Bubbles by Lisa Vogt as seen in Fusing For the Adventurous Webinar

Small details can have a huge impact on the visual appearance of your art.

Don’t underestimate the power of minor changes to customary pieces. When trying to navigate a new territory, you’ll have the greatest success if you take what has worked for you in the past and then expand on it to create something all new and unexpected.

Here’s how to get started.

Anchor the viewer’s eye with an interesting pattern. Unexpected bubbles are usually considered undesirable. But when made into a uniform design, bubbles can add a whole new dimension to the glass art. Designing with bubbles is a terrific way to add decoration and a little sparkle. Light dances inside the tiny dome shapes which increases the appearance of depth and the overall intricacy of the finished piece.

Here, I’m using stringers to establish the pattern. They’re placed even distances apart in two directions on a base glass and then capped with clear glass. The cool thing about this technique is the assembly method dictates the placement, size and shape of the bubbles. If the openings between the stringers are square, then the bubbles are round. Rectangular openings result in oval shaped bubbles. While triangular openings give you tear drop shaped bubbles.

Making small, 2” x 2” test pieces will give you an opportunity to try unusual color combinations. It also builds confidence because you know what to expect when you go bigger. The best part of this technique is the possibilities for imaginative designs are endless. Try it. You’ll be blown away!

Black Tie by Lisa Vogt as seen in Sculptural Fused Glass Video

Sculpture romances the viewer.

Sculpture romances the viewer. It pulls them in like a magnet. Give your art unique shape and the viewer will be hooked. With so many fusing materials at your disposal, it’s never been easier to get creative with your art’s profile. The easiest way to get funky shapes is to drape fiber material over an existing slumping mold. Give the fiber paper exaggerated contours by tucking kiln posts or fiber board between the mold and the fiber.

You can also achieve new shapes by combining different ceramic or stainless-steel slumping molds together. Some of my most exciting pieces have been made this way.

If you’re shy to jump in, build a sample out of clear glass. Make the sample the same shape, size, and thickness as the intended project. Clear is the best choice because it’s the least expensive glass. And you can see through it to see where the glass rests on the mold assembly. Then you’re able to adjust the final piece as needed. Plus, there’s no waste. The clear sample can be smashed and used for casting filler. It’s a win, win.    

The wonderful thing about this technique is every piece of glass slumped has a one-of-a-kind flare. They’re making your own personal original. Now that’s exciting! 

Get crazy and combine both techniques and you have a showstopper. The biggest drawback to this in-depth approach is the amount of time necessary to plan an exceptional project. True, not all projects warrant this much effort. But if you work in stages on a few, you’ll find the outcome is extremely rewarding.

Design developer.

Take it a step further and create your own design. Go back to the three pieces of art you studied earlier. Take the three elements that attracted you and combine them with a unique pattern and a sculptural shape. Now you’re on the threshold of greatness!

These are just a few examples of breaking the rules. If you’re ready to rush into your studio, excited about the possibilities, don’t stop here. These techniques have great potential for expansion in so many directions. Take them and run and set your imagination free.   

For more advanced instruction check out my Sculptural Fused Glass Video.

Check out my video: How to Create & Retain Texture to learn more.

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Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki

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How To Design Striking Fused Glass Art From Your Scrap!

No Waste! That’s just one of the many great things I love about glass fusing! Even the tiniest piece of glass is usable/fusible.

It takes a lot more glass to build elaborate designs with intricate shapes than it does to build designs with simple square shapes. With the rising cost of material always in mind I want to get as much use out of my sheet glass as possible. Rather than let the cost of material inhibit my creative direction I trust in the process. While fabricating the project at hand I keep an eye out for interesting new design ideas that develop along the way.

Octopus Tray

This flowing octopus design is an amazing example of how to repurpose cut offs. The movement of the tentacles combined with the vivid blue background and painterly quality of the frit make it so fun to build.

When I have a design idea in mind I draw the pattern without limitations. Then I decide on the best fabrication method to achieve the artistic look I want. I enjoy cutting glass by hand with my pistol grip cutter. I actually use my saw as little as possible and save it for deep cuts that would otherwise be impossible. But the ring saw was my tool of choice to get the smooth, graceful shapes I believed would bring this design to life.

The sweeping glass curls cut from the background of the octopus were prefect for a new complimentary design. I love the octopus tray for its whimsical design and its striking color. It’s a one-of-a-kind and should be appreciated as such. I wanted to created something different with the cutoffs, something equally as exciting and unique.

High Contrast Colors Get Attention

When approaching this piece I felt the distinctive shapes of the dark blue curls would carry the design. All these pieces needed was a simple, uncluttered field to perform their magic. I love the way the sweeping tentacles appear to come from behind and embrace the white glass. It contrasts the Octopus Tray where the design originates in the middle and spreads to the perimeter. The high contrast colors combined with the graceful shapes elevate the elegance of the finished piece of art.

In the future, when you’re looking for inspiration look no further than your scrap bin. There’s a literal gold mine of ideas just waiting to be discovered. Get cutting!

This Octopus Tentacle Tray is the newest project now available with my Premium Video Membership. You’ll enjoy seeing how easy it is to make. Not a member but still love this piece of art? No problem. It’s also available as a single video download.

Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki

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How Glass Reacts to Heat

You have choices when it comes to how to fire your projects. Different temperatures will result in different project characteristics. My goal here is to give you the tools to make educated decisions when selecting your firing method so you have greater control and more satisfying results. 

Fusing Defined

Fuse: To heat glass pieces in a kiln until they melt together into one piece.

Glass Fusing Process Temperatures

Full Fuse

Full Fuse

Full Fuse 96 COE 1465°F (796°C) 90 COE 1480°F (804°C). Full fuse is the most common firing method. At this temperature the assembled glass project pieces melt together to form one smooth piece with visible, but not tactile, seams. The project has a smooth surface and round, shiny edges. I choose this temperature when I’m making decorative and functional artwork where I want a smooth, uniform surface.

Contour Fuse

Contour Fuse

Contour Fuse: 96 COE 1425°F (774°C), 90 COE 1400°F (760°C). A contour fuse is a fired look between full fuse and tack fuse. At this temperature the glass layers are fused, and the edges are soft and rounded. The project surface has both visible and physical texture. I use this temperature when I want to create a decorative project with physical texture that increases the surface area to reflect more light.

Tack Fuse

Tack Fuse

Tack Fuse 96 & 90 COE 1365°F (742°C). At this temperature, the glass pieces stick together. The project edges will be square and shiny. Design elements will retain their texture but are generally not sharp to touch. This is a great temperature for suncatchers and other ornaments where you want a light firing that really sparkles.

Combine Techniques

You can fire a project to a full fuse for the smooth rounded edge quality. Then refire it to a contour or tack fuse temperature with additional design elements on top for a unique and dazzling look.

My Building Process 

Most of my work is assembled with the two layers, plus accent method. I refer to the bottom layer as the base and the second as the design layer. The base layer and design layer are the same shape and size. The base layer is often a single piece of clear, but not always; sometimes it’s made up of cut pieces. The second design layer can be a single piece of glass, but often, its pieces fit together to make a specific pattern or design. The third accent layer is minimal, and it usually consists of small fusible elements that enhance the design theme. I choose to build this way because I get consistent results time after time. The finished size and shape of the artwork is predictable. The pieces come out of the kiln with beautiful, rounded edges and a consistent thickness that is both attractive and durable.   

It’s All Good   

Keep in mind, there’s no single right or wrong way to make any project. Personal preference, design style and function should all play a role in helping you decide which approach is best. The objective is to consciously choose your firing temperature based on a solid understanding of the results.  

Excerpt from Glass Fusing Terms as seen on my website.

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Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki

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How to Create Shadows and Shading

You’re wondering why is this subject important? You’ve likely had success working some element of shading into your pieces and that’s great. However, you may not know about the seldom discussed advanced techniques experienced artists use to produce more sophisticated compositions. With thoughtful planning, you can apply these simple techniques and drastically increase the richness of your work.      

When creating shading, it’s natural to reach for black frit or black glass. Black efficiently separates the foreground from the background. Black is also great for outlining your subject. However, there’s a better solution that adds richness to your scene.

When you use black to make shadows it creates a visual hole in your work. This void pulls the viewer’s attention away from your composition. For this reason, I use black as little as possible. I apply it with purpose for specific details in my designs. Instead of black, I use very dark blue, chocolate brown, deep purple or ruby red to make shadows in my pieces. I select the dark color that best suits the color scheme in my artwork. Using powerful high contrast colors adds velvety depth and an incredible richness to the setting.

How to create shadows with color.

Wine Glass as seen in my Simple Pleasures Video

Here I used dark blue to establish the linear details that translate into a grape vineyard behind the wine glass. The deep shadows the blue color creates, give the scene a relaxing late afternoon mood. The border is dark purple which mimics the color of grapes and wine.

Octopus Tray as seen in my Premium Video Membership

Here I used dark red to make shadows on the underside of the octopus tentacles. This application also makes the tentacle visually round and full. Dark red also worked beautifully to outline the octopus body and place it in front of the tentacles that curl behind its body. The only black in this piece is the eye detail.

Fairy tale Forest as seen in my Painting with Frit Video

There’s no black in this lush scene. The dark shadows in the trees and along the path are made with dark blue. The shadow cast on the woodland path is a combination of purple and dark amber frit. Get creative with your color combinations to build up dark recesses that make your highlighted details pop.

Winter Landscape as seen in the winter issue G.P.Q. Magazine Jan 2023

In this piece of art, black is limited to the lines on the tree trunks. I selected muted tones to create a quiet, calm, and relaxing setting. The shadow under the trees are created with medium purple frit. It simultaneously gave me depth and softness which I wanted to portray in this winter scene.

Welcome Fall as seen in my Premium Video Membership

When making this seasonal piece I wanted to maintain a warm yet rich color palette. I used a small amount black in the word welcome and in some of the letters that spell out FALL. When it came to adding shadows to the pumpkin, I used orange opal frit. The contrast is subtle but effective. I’m pleased with the stylized design and the inviting warmth it adds to my home.  

You got this!

Don’t worry about missing black. Once you substitute colors for black, you’ll love the effects you’re able to create. You’ll be amazed how switching to dark colors transforms your art and brings it to life.

Artists take what they see and make it new.

We take an ordinary scene and turn it into something new that reflects our sense of drama and whimsy. Using rich colors, instead of black, is a fabulous way to push designs in any direction you want to establish a personalized mood and tone. Give it a try. The possibilities are endless. You’re only limited by your imagination.

Watch the video here.

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Happy Fusing!

Lisa & Niki

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Tropical Fish How-to

14.5 inch x 7.25 inch

Enjoy summer’s sunny, fun filled days with this shimmering tropical fish tray.

The most wonderful characteristic of glass is its generous nature. If you open yourself up to discovery, glass continuously offers the curious artist brand new opportunities to be creative. I’ve been working with this medium for more than 30 years now! And it still amazes me that a simple, new twist on old techniques can still give me a huge thrill and excite me as much as a carefree kid on summer vacation.

Due to the number of projects I make, I have a lot of scrap glass. So, when I find a new, clever way to make something beautiful with left over material, I get fired up. And best of all, the reliable techniques used here are fun and easy to apply. It’s the unusual pairing of multiple design methods that makes this tropical fish tray so attractive and enjoyable to build.

Don’t let the complex looking design scare you. The different techniques I used to create this bright reef dweller are broken down into easy, manageable steps.

Tropical Fish Tray by Lisa Vogt

 Let’s get started.

 Use the pattern as a guide to cut the base layer out of clear glass. Grind the glass to improve the shape and remove any sharp edges. Clean the glass with water and then dry it with a towel. Set the clear base aside.

Number the pattern pieces on 2 copies of the fish pattern. This will simplify the assembly later. Cut the pattern up with scissors. Use a glue stick to hold the paper pattern pieces on the glass. Cut the glass as close to the pattern as possible. Remove the excess glass with running pliers and grozing pliers. Use the same method to cut and shape the fish scales.

Save your scrap pieces to make the open and airy background pieces of the tray.

Grind the cut fish pieces to remove any sharp edges. Clean the ground glass with water and then dry the pieces with a towel. Arrange the ground fish pieces on the clear base layer. Glue the pieces to the base with fuser’s glue. Let the glue dry before moving to the next step. Otherwise, the glass will slide around when you apply the frit.

Using a spoon, pour fine Cobalt blue frit on the fish. Gently sweep it into the gaps with a small paint brush. This adds contrast and detail to the design. Run a line of frit down the top and bottom fins. Use a narrow paint brush to make a scalloped design in the frit. Remove any excess frit with the brush.

Tropical Fish Tray by Lisa Vogt

Sift medium blue opal powder frit on the fish head, tail and small fin. Clean up the edges and make them crisp with a small brush. Sprinkle medium white frit on the head and tail. Place a small scrap of black on the head to make the mouth. Arrange a premade dot on the head for the eye.

Making eyes. I have a little container full of fused glass dots that I pull from when making projects that have eyes. To make dots I cut ¼ inch squares out of white glass. I cut 1/8 inch squares out of a black backed dichroic glass. The small dichroic square is stacked on the white glass and glass is fired to a full fuse temperature using the guide below. The small pieces plump and ball-up during firing. They make super cute, expressive eyes for a variety of projects.

Cut the border base layer out of clear glass. Cut a second layer out of white glass. Stack the white strips on the clear strips.

Cut ¼ inch wide strips of glass out of clear glass and colors that complement the fish colors. Using mosaic nippers trim the strips into small squares.

Arrange the glass border and the assembled fish on a primed, or a fiber paper lined kiln shelf. Place the cut squares and scrap on the kiln shelf around the border and fish. For nice, individual round shapes make sure there’s adequate space between each of the little pieces. (If they, touch you’ll end up with ovals and wiggly worms.) Note: It’s not necessary to grind the scrap before firing. The organic shapes they create add softness to the design.

Tropical Fish Tray by Lisa Vogt

Yes, laying out all of these tiny pieces is tedious. Tough it out. The dots and dashes made from the scrap are worth the extra effort. I promise you’ll love the variety of shapes and increased selection you have to choose from when you assemble the tray background. Plus, you can use the extras dots and dashes in future projects.

Tropical Fish Tray by Lisa Vogt

Fire the glass to a full fuse temperature using the guide below.

Place the fused fish inside the fused border on a primed or fiber paper lined kiln shelf. Fill in the open background space with the dots and dashes made from scrap. Make sure the pieces are in contact with each other, the border and the fish to connect the entire project together.

Tropical Fish Tray by Lisa Vogt

Dots and Dashes bowl bonus project. This adorable bowl was inspired by the fun, organic shapes made by fusing the randomly shaped scraps left over from cutting the fish. I had so much fun laying out the fish background, I couldn’t stop myself from doing more. This little gem is so simple and super fun. Just draw a 6 inch circle on shelf paper. Arrange leftover dots and dashes inside the pencil line. Fill the space. Make sure the pieces of glass are in contact with each other to connect the whole circle.

Tropical Fish Tray by Lisa Vogt

Fire the assembled pieces to a tack fuse temperature using the guide below.

Carefully place the tacked fish tray on a ceramic mold. Place the small bowl on a ceramic mold. Slump the tray and bowl using the project specific guide below. This gentle slumping guide works well for pieces that are delicate and have open spaces in the background. The temperature is lower than usual, and the hold is longer. This conservative slump guide ensures these glass projects retain their size and shape, without stretching, during heating and slumping.

This project evolved as I went along. I started with the free-form fish design. Then I liked the idea of incorporating an open background that mimicked bubbles. I was concerned, strength wise that the tacked dots might not be strong enough to support the weight of the fish. That’s when the border idea came to me. The border would give the project a nice visual frame and add support to the overall tray.

In the end, I’m happy with the unexpected mix of techniques and the way the tray came out. Design wise, I like how the clean straight lines of the white border contrast the bright, fluid background. And I’m pleased with the way the stylized fish brings uplifting, aquatic summertime activities and memories to my mind. I hope you have as much fun as I did making a Tropical Fish Tray of your own.

Tropical Fish Tray as seen in Glass Patterns Quarterly Summer 2019

GPQ Summer 2019

Watch the Fish Tray video here: https://youtu.be/X86oD6HUafo

Happy Fusing!
Lisa & Niki

 Fusing Guide

Segment 1: Ramp 300 F/hr to 1300 and hold 30 min.

Segment 2: Ramp 500 F/hr to 1465 and hold 10 min.

Segment 3: Ramp 9999(AFAP*) to 960 and hold 40 min.

Segment 4: Cool to room temperature.

*As fast as possible

Tack Fuse Guide

Segment 1: Ramp 300 F/hr to 1365 and hold 10 min.

Segment 2: Ramp 9999(AFAP*) to 960 and hold 40 min.

Segment 3: Cool to room temperature.

*As fast as possible

 Gentle Slumping Guide

Segment 1: Ramp 300 F/hr to 1200 and hold 20 min.

Segment 2: Ramp 9999(AFAP*) to 960 and hold 40 min.

Segment 3: Cool to room temperature.

*As fast as possible.

NOTE: Kilns fire differently. Test fire these guides in your kiln and then make adjustments as needed.

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